Ive just been trying to have a 1st drive in my R1 indy, but it keeps stalling whenever i engage 1st?

how ive been trying:

start engine up in neutral, foot on clutch, pull stick back for 1st, and it stalles.

and because i havent got a clutch stop yet, when it stalles my foot tends to jolt forwards and pull the nnipple off, which is rather annoying.

so am i doing this right?

do i need to add some revs when engaging gear?

or is something probably wrong?

cheers for any help on this.

Has it been sat ages? Could the clutch plates have stuck together (they used to do it on bikes if I didn'r ride them for a long time).
Tried starting with the wheels off the floor?

maybe a combination of poor clutch adjustment and sticky clutch can combine to put extra load on the engine.

A few revs shouldn't be necessary, but wouldn't do any harm

The R1 has a cut out switch on its side stand.

If you are using the R1 wiring loom
you will need to locate the switch plug and then bypass it

[Edited on 9/10/2011 by norm007]

If you are in neutral it should be a push forward for first and then pull back for 2nd to 6th.

Hi mate it,s your kick stand switch could still be part of your loom we used ours as a security switch Cheers Ali

i didn't realise it was up for 1st then down the rest, but just tryed it and its still doing the same.

im sure i shorted the side stand switch, i will try and find it, and double check.


if its a sticking clutch plate, how would i unstick it?


cheers

oh, and if its in 1st, and i push the clutch in, should the car roll forewards?

as ive been trying this, but its making no differece wheather i have the clutch in or not?

this is making me think there is something wrong with the clutch? ie its not releasing?

It doesn't have to be forward for first gear, it all depends how the linkage is configured. What tickover revs are you getting? Could be too low. Does sound like a clutch adjustment issue though, is there much resistance in the clutch pedal? Can you see how much the linkage is moving at the clutch end?

You need to check that the clutch is disengaging. And that you have the correct oil in the engine. With the car in any gear, the car should roll with the clutch pressed.

yes im almost certain the clutch is stuck.

ive just tryed having the car on a downhill slope, in gear, and a cable tie holding the clutch lever all the way out. and i could not get it to budge.


im going to try running it up to temp., and see if that will help.

oh and as for oil, i had a plumbing mistake a few months ago which resulted in a few litres of coolant getting into the oil, but ive flushed it since with new bike oil, but im sure this didn't help.

deffo sounds as if clutch plates have stuck together, one point no-one has raised is it imperative to fit a stop on the pedal apart from the fact as you say the nipple keeps coming off, the stop will stop the clutch spring from inverting itself. not a hard job to do just involves taking cover off and stripping the clutch down a bit, a pain in the arse and one that is better avoided..I would jack the arse end up and put on axle stands give it a few revs and put it into gear and hope the shock frees the clutch.
as said gearshift doesn't necessarily have to push forward for 1st, but is the logical was as when you accelerate you are pulled back into the seat so pulling back for 2/3/4/5/6 is easier same as when braking you are pushed forward so again pushing the shift forward 6/5/4/3/2/n/1 is easier, all depends on how your linkage is setup


tony

Well ive just taken it apart and removed the plates, they were a bit stiff, but nothing major, but the 6 springs were a little rusty.

so do i just give them a good soak in oil now, reasemble, and hope it all works?

or do i need to disemble further?


I do have to say, i don't have a clue how it all works.

I take it you are moving the clutch arm far enough. There is about 20-30 degrees of rotation that is just slack then you need the arm to move another 20-30 degrees to release the clutch. Just be carefull you don't over rotate the lever or it'll get stuck out and you'll have to take the clutch cover off again to re-allign the clutch pack.

Have you also tried starting it in first gear with the clutch down?

[Edited on 10/10/11 by ko_racer]

dry clutch me thinks.

I think you need to strip n soak in oil....

yes it was quite dry. especially the ones at the end.

they are now soaking in oil (while i have lunch), and will reasemble after.

hopefully that will sort it.

good luck pal.

arrhhh, all seemed to go back together really well, clutch case went on 1st time.

then i realise, the clutch arm is facing the other way than it was before, now ive got to pull it towards the front of the car, rather than the the rear.

but there is a lot more feel to it (harder to pull) than before.

but just tried pushing it in gear whilst pulling the arm, but the clutch is still not disengaging!

think i may have put the arm on the wrong way? can anyone with a r1 tell me what way it should be facing/need pulling?

should be a dot mark on the shaft, certain it's only visible from below.

tony

success (almost) at last.

Ive got it on, and working.

But jeez, you have to press that lever hard!, all my weight onto the lever (leaving a big indentation in my hand), and it releases.

are they usually this stiff? or has someone put some extra strong springs in?


oh and i havent used the gasket, as it was pissing me off, so im going to have to take it back off, to put that on now.

but at least i know it works.


although i think im going to need to solder on the nipples, as there is no way the screw ones will hold on!

don't forget you're pushing on a relatively short lever, by the time it's on the pedal the leverage ratio will make it a lot easier, without harping on don't forget a pedal stop, if it goes over the top you will have to strip it all down to reset the big diaphram spring. mines been ok on screw on nipples.

tony

You really ought to have a pedal stop.

Apart from that, yes the lever is too stiff for me to move by hand and I'm a big strong lad

oh, that seems like it is now how it should then.

i just need to re-route my cable, and ive figured out a good way to make a clutch stop.

thanks for all the help.

What year R1 is it? The discription of "6 springs" suggests a later one, so the talk of moving too far and inverting the diaphragm spring and having to reset it, is for the wrong/earlier clutch. When you reassembled it, did you remember to put the last plate 1/2 out of phase? (easy mistake). You can get around the lever alignment difficulty by removing the little circlip and removing the lever from the shaft, then refit it after; Rather than faff about trying to get the shaft to engage on the correct tooth while fitting the cover.
How heavy it feels is really down the pedal ratios and heavy isnt good and could result in a binary clutch. ie, Either on or off with difficult to control bite point.

yes its a 2008 R1. so i don't need to be too careful about going to far then? (although i take it, its a good idea to have a stop anyway?)

i put all the plates back in exactly how they came out (they were already marked).

i think its probably just a bit stiffer than i was expecting. and will see what its like when ive got the pedal/cable all sorted.

All I did for a pedal stop was drill a hole in the bulk head about 3/4 of the way up the pedal and used a round headed gutter bolt with a nut and washer either side of the bulkhead.
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the rusty L shaped bracket mounted on the pivot point is a simple stop to prevent the pedal coming to far forward, the same setup on the throttle pedal

[Edited on 11/10/11 by mad-butcher]

ARHH, still no luck!

The clutch is now disengaging correctly, the car will now move in gear with the clutch pressed.

But its still stalling when putting it in gear.

Ive checked both the stand and clutch switches are both shorted.

But im sure its a mechanical issue, as when engaging gear, it just makes a loud clunk, although the car doesn't seem to move foreward like in a normal car.

The other thing i have noticed is, to get it in gear, i often have to push it forewards a few feet? is this normal?

Im not really sure what to do now?

anyone got anymore ideas?

cheers

woo, just had a brain wave, and shorted the neutral wire to earth, and it doesn't stall/cutout?

so do i keep it like this? or should the clutch switch be left open? rather than shorted?


But atleast its working now, and am amazed at how much clutch feel there is, as it happily moves with just the clutch.

But should i have to roll the car to a certain spot to be able to get it in gear?

cheers

If it doesn't go into gear at the first atempt, let your clutch out, then try putting it in gear again....

quote:

---

Originally posted by -matt
woo, just had a brain wave, and shorted the neutral wire to earth, and it doesn't stall/cutout?

so do i keep it like this? or should the clutch switch be left open? rather than shorted?


But atleast its working now, and am amazed at how much clutch feel there is, as it happily moves with just the clutch.

But should i have to roll the car to a certain spot to be able to get it in gear?

cheers

---

I may be a bit late to help you but I know what your problem it.

Replace the main relay, (just type R1 Main relay into ebay with your engine year).

The relays are a bit of a weak spot on these bikes some times. If you change the relay you should fix the problem!

YES I SECOND WAITEY RESPONSE I HAD THE SELF SAME PROBLEM AND CAUSED ME A HEAD ACHE I ALSO CHANGED MY NEUTRAL SWITCH AS IT WAS STICKING INTERMITANTLY ALSO CHECK THE SMALL BANK OF FUSES IN YOU BIKE LOOM