Probable a stupid question but is there any reason why you couldn't use an aftermarket ECU (Omex 600 in my case) on a bike engine? If I'm going to convert my car it would be much simpler if I could use the existing Omex and Dash2/DL1 setup rather than the Busa's ECU/Clocks/Wiring etc.

Im thinking of running my busa'd Vortx (building at the min) on MBE ECU. SO cant see why not mate.

I used an Emerald on an R1 four years ago - when I spoke to Dave Walker at Emerald he said "Oh, nobody has ever done that before...." !

It was a trial but worth the effort! We even managed to get the Emerald and DL1 / Dash 1 all talking via can bus!

Wyn

I run my turbo blade engine on megasquirt, no reason not to do this Get it set up on a rolling road and should be better than factory as fully optimised.

Which was kinda my thoughts. If I can get it mapped on the Omex I don't need a power commander and it is mapped correctly for the intake and exhaust in the car. I wasn't sure if it was possible or not,

Don't know what you're revving to, but the omex goes up to 12750rpm

Interesting, didn't know that.

quote:

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Originally posted by jeffw
Which was kinda my thoughts. If I can get it mapped on the Omex I don't need a power commander and it is mapped correctly for the intake and exhaust in the car. I wasn't sure if it was possible or not,

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Which is where I was going with the idea.

However I've done some calculations using the Gear Calc and I can't get anything sensible, top end wise, using the English Axle in the car. I would need to change to a IRS car before doing a BEC which kinda does away with the idea.

quote:

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Originally posted by jeffw
Probable a stupid question but is there any reason why you couldn't use an aftermarket ECU (Omex 600 in my case) on a bike engine? If I'm going to convert my car it would be much simpler if I could use the existing Omex and Dash2/DL1 setup rather than the Busa's ECU/Clocks/Wiring etc.

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quote:

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Originally posted by jeffwHowever I've done some calculations using the Gear Calc and I can't get anything sensible, top end wise, using the English Axle in the car. I would need to change to a IRS car before doing a BEC which kinda does away with the idea.

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I'm kinda stuck with a 3.54 as the longest unless I change to an Atlas ,

Jeff,

Not sure that the OMEX is so great for hayabusa. The existing Suzuki ECU is very clever and include lots of functionality. For example the inner and outer cylinders have their own fuel and spark maps. Also the secondary injectors and the servo controlled throttle plate will be controlled nicely by the stock ECU.

I think you'd be better off selling the OMEX, buying a power commander (which are cheap). Also you will save a pile of money on the rolling road as you will only be tweaking the map (rather than building from scratch).

Don't get me wrong, I am sure you could map it with OMEX and it would run, but my guess is that it would run more powerfully and sweeter on the stock ECU with a power commander add-on.

Matt

Bugger, didn't know you weren't IRS.

I couldn't get a sensible ratio for a live axle car when I looked.

I could get down to 3.1 on a Atlas but that is 4" wider and heavier.

quote:

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Originally posted by matt_gsxr
Jeff,

Not sure that the OMEX is so great for hayabusa. The existing Suzuki ECU is very clever and include lots of functionality. For example the inner and outer cylinders have their own fuel and spark maps. Also the secondary injectors and the servo controlled throttle plate will be controlled nicely by the stock ECU.

I think you'd be better off selling the OMEX, buying a power commander (which are cheap). Also you will save a pile of money on the rolling road as you will only be tweaking the map (rather than building from scratch).

Don't get me wrong, I am sure you could map it with OMEX and it would run, but my guess is that it would run more powerfully and sweeter on the stock ECU with a power commander add-on.

Matt

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quote:

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Originally posted by jeffw

quote:

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Originally posted by matt_gsxr
Jeff,

Not sure that the OMEX is so great for hayabusa. The existing Suzuki ECU is very clever and include lots of functionality. For example the inner and outer cylinders have their own fuel and spark maps. Also the secondary injectors and the servo controlled throttle plate will be controlled nicely by the stock ECU.

I think you'd be better off selling the OMEX, buying a power commander (which are cheap). Also you will save a pile of money on the rolling road as you will only be tweaking the map (rather than building from scratch).

Don't get me wrong, I am sure you could map it with OMEX and it would run, but my guess is that it would run more powerfully and sweeter on the stock ECU with a power commander add-on.

Matt

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You see I look at it differently. The map on the stock ECU (with or without a power commander) will always think it is a bike. So side stand switch, kill switch, clutch switch etc etc etc plus the need to use the clocks to get the error codes and so on. At the end of the day it is an engine in a car with car like intake and exhaust and not, typically, with the ram-air that the stock ECU is expecting. I think you could get a very good map, developed for a car with out all the bike bits, within 5-6 hours on the rollers.

It isn't going to happen with my current car anyway so it is a mute point.

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Well....I kinda emotionally attached to the Phoenix so it is likely that I'll tune the Zetec upto 230-250BHP. Otherwise I would go and buy something like this

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3258701.htm

Which is probable the same as the Phoenix + Zetec Tuning (or pretty close).

For that power N/A would it not be worth going to a duratec and sell your motor to offset the cost? Unless you go for an blown motor which shouldn't cost too much. Does your ecu allow a full throttle shift?

I could go for a Duratec but the cost involved to get the engine upto 250BHP would be much more than doing the same to the Zetec. The primary issue is that the exhaust exits on the other side so I would need to scrap my very expensive Powerspeed exhaust and get another one. If you add sump, bellhousing, clutch, rods/pistons/cams & inlet manifold as well as rewiring, engine mounts & RR time to the list the Duratec gets to be a £6-7K conversion to me.

I think what I will do is get a short Zetec engine (or complete one) get it bored for my hi-comp pistons + rods. Get the bottom end balanced and then transfer the head off the existing engine with much higher lift cams. The current engine runs 208BHP so, hopefully, the change of pistons/rods & cams would see that up to the 240 mark (with a reduced rev range of course).

I agree Jeff. Stick with what you know and understand, and of course, are emotionally attached to! (And it's a really good car as it is!)

Cheers, Nick