Done quite a bit of work on the car recently but there are lots of loose ends that i want to tie up:
I only have one set of wires without a home the temperature sender from the bike is it on the engine if so where? ( when i short the two wires the dash comes up with water temp warning)

Also I am i using a master cylinder from a 1.6 sierra saloon that i thought were simple but yesterday i saw that in the haynes manual it says they are servo assisted which i dont think matters, the brakes are off a 2.8 sierra estate does that matter?

after having my sump chopped etc ( excellent job btw thanks chris and john) i came to reassembly and had a feeling there is a rubber O ring to seal the pick up on to the engine which i have lost if i do need one will a normal O ring from lucas be ok to replace it?

Alot of people on here were saying that the best oil was semi synthetic, castrol R etc. but in JS gedges yesterday the bloke said normal 10/40w is ok unless it is being thrashed and was wondering if the engine is under enough strain to warrant the more expensive oil.

Sorry about all the questions but i go back to school in a week and so need to do alot of work this week
Any help is much appreciated
Ben

i can cover a few of those...

M/C should be ok, i take it you have removed the servo unit? might be the same as unplugging the vacume pipe, but it wastes space (and weight). I guess the 2.8 has rear discs? no real problem here.

Oil. I heard it said that using the wrong oil in bike engines can lead to the clutch slipping. Others will know more about this than me, but with this in mind i will use the recommended oil.

i'll get back to you on the temp sender wires, i got the diagram upstairs!

ATB, Joel.

Temp sender I seem to remember is under the carbs on the block at the prop end.

I've only ever used Redline fully synthetic, there has been MUCH discussion on this, but mine has run faultlessly at track temps of 120 deg - remember when mounted the sideways and without the lean of a motorbike it will be more stressed (hence a good idea to use a sump baffle) and for the sake of a few quid difference I want to use the best. Semi-synthetic is a waste of money, better to use un-synthetic. And yes, you will thrash it!! The engine will be under greater strain in a BEC than in a bike.

Not sure on the O-ring, though I would though a standard one would be fine, aren't they all designed to be used in an oily environment?

And the master cylinder should be fine.....

Normal car oil has friction reducers built in to it, this is what will make your clutch slip. Put bike oil in, and I, like Jasper use red line with no problem. Yes its more expensive, but some things are worth paying for .

That's what it's there for and the better it does it the better it is for the engine.Surely if anything a bike engine needs it more than a car as it is revving higher.

The clutch doesn't fare too well when you use oil with friction reducers in. A car has a dry clutch but the bike clutch is half immersed in the oil. Don't skimp on the oil, stick to fully synthetic. Make sure you get decent clutch springs too, in my experience (limited) barnett have proven best.