Took my F/S Expert out of the box today. Regrettably, I'm no expert, (far from it, as regular visitors to this site know).
Has anyone any photos af their installation (Expert or Pro) please? If so would you be kind enough to post them for me?
I have the 'Club' version fitted, (no vacuum take-off) and I'm scared witless about taking a drill to the Busa inlet manifold.
Graham at F/S is imensely helpful, but my knowledge and skill levels are off his radar. Nothing is too basic for me!
Bob.
Hi Bob,
Here is a photo of the Expert blipper fitted to a GSXR1000 K7 throttle body.
The vacuum takeoff is arrowed.
I tapped the spare boss next to the existing vacuum take off on the barrel nearest the blipper.
This was tapped M5 and I made up a threaded barb with a 3mm bore.
Flatshift blipper
Here is the blipper being activated by the test switch on the Expert box.
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double
butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the
inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set up
correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double
butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the
inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set up
correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Both replies are really appreciated.
The particular application with ref to the Gen ll Busa would be of immense help noc231073.
I want to collect as much information as possible before I embark on the fitting. The 'Club' model is fine as far as it goes, but having
paid for the downshift-capable model (Pro, which Graham upgraded to Expert f.o.c.) it would be crackers to leave it in the box. I won't start any
substitution until I'm confident the exercise can be completed successfully.
Regards and thanks. Bob. (I can never have too much help).
[Edited on 23/4/12 by bobinspain]
quote:
Originally posted by noc231073
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set up correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Ok. Got the Expert fitted today.
Tickover is 1,100-1,200 rpm, but with the engine fully warmed up, the butterflies are still fully closed.
Not taken the car out yet to check F/S operation.
Any comments/ideas please?
Thankyou.
You shouldnt need to take the car out to test it, on the flatshifter box it should have a test switch with up and down. You push it towards the up and you should hear the engine cut out momentarily and go down and it should blip the throttle.
I assume these require some modifications to the throttle body on a k5 gixer 1000 to work?
I'd quite like one of these too..
quote:
Originally posted by eddie99
You shouldnt need to take the car out to test it, on the flatshifter box it should have a test switch with up and down. You push it towards the up and you should hear the engine cut out momentarily and go down and it should blip the throttle.
Hi Bob,
The secondary butterflies are not there to operate as a choke, that is taken care of by the engine temperature sensor. The reason the butterflies did
not move was because you didn't rev the engine. the secondary butterflies control air flow through the throttle bodies keeping the air speed as
high as possible at all times. so they will move when you rev the engine and open the primary butterflies. hope that helps.
quote:
Originally posted by cosmick
Hi Bob,
The secondary butterflies are not there to operate as a choke, that is taken care of by the engine temperature sensor. The reason the butterflies did not move was because you didn't rev the engine. the secondary butterflies control air flow through the throttle bodies keeping the air speed as high as possible at all times. so they will move when you rev the engine and open the primary butterflies. hope that helps.
No problem, always a pleasure to help.
Description
I want to check I've not done anything obviously stoopid here, hence the photo of the 'Expert' installation.
Autoblip appears to function fine and there's a stutter when 'up' is selected on the test switch.
Am I ready for launch?
[Edited on 20/5/12 by bobinspain]
That all sounds fine Bob. The stutter is the coils power supply being cut so it unloads the gears allowing a clean change.
I hope you got out to test it
Bob the coil cut is more of a direct cut of the engine kind of has if it has missed (ie kind of when a engine misfires) if it stutters you may need to wire in closer to the coil it has been known that if not wired correct it can cut power to the ecu which may explain a stutter you will soon know if its wired correct as the up change when giving it some beans is so smooth you wont know its changed gear !!!!
Steve,
Didn't get out to test yesterday. Cu Nims everywhere and hosed it down big-style as it turned out.
Turbo911,
Thanks for the heads up. The 'Expert' was a direct replacement for the factory-fitted 'Club,' so we left the shift
sensor and wiring as was and just substituted the old box with the two new boxes and added the blipper.
With the Club, the low speed F/S upshift was indeed 'grabby' at low rpm (5-7k), but much smoother higher up the rev range.
I'll post how the test run goes.
Thanks for all your time troops. Much appreciated and highly valued.
Bob.
As promised: Road tested successfully.
27c at 10 am, like driving with 100 hairdryers on your face full-chat.
Upshifts almost seamless when 'giving it beans.' A little lumpy when not doing so.
Will need to back off the blipper a little as the downshift is 'aggressive' (for road use).
I noticed three other things too.
1. I used earplugs and WOW! The noise/racket/high freq stuff you're aware of when you remove the plugs whilst driving is frightening. I was
amazed at just how much they cut out. Will wear 'em all the time now.
2. Bugs travelling at 120kph hurt. I'll wear a daft 'at from now on.
3. The lowest part of the exhaust manifold is in contact with and has partially melted the glass immediately adjacent to it. No biggie, but the hole
needs enlarging by a cm or so.
Onwards and upwards.