Ok this has probably been discussed before

The engine is now on song ,but I am experiencing some clutch slip , especially in higher gears.

I am running on Castrol G4.

The guy in the bike shop said that this is not the best oil for the clutch and recommended another with an ingrediant for this type of clutch (I can't remember what it was)

I was told a complete new clutch with uprated springs would be about £65

What would you lot suggest.

Oh BTW its an old Blade c 1992

If you think about it you are draging around a lot more weight and have a larger contact area with your tyres, yet the motor is still rying to rev, something has to give in, the clutch wasn't designed for this aplication,

minimum you need is beefier springs to give the clutch a fighting chance.
A good idea is to use a reinforced basket as well, they make a mess when the fingers let go..
Tim

just wondering if Castrol G4 is an oil designed for motorcycle engines, remember that the clutch runs in the oil and you have to have the right type of oil in there
best wishes
Iain

Id go with original Honda frictions if you can afford them (~£100-120), or an EBC Kevlar clutch if not (~£60).
For springs I would certainly recommend Barnett heavy duty ones, I ran my EBC clutch with brand new Honda springs and it still slipped a bit, but the Barnetts sorted it out and has been fine for the whole summer. Historically the EBC springs were useless (used to shrink very quickly), I havent heard of them making any changes to their springs so personally would avoid them.

Regarding oil, Castrol's bike oil is either "R4" (Fully Synth) or, I think, "GPS" which is their semi synthetic stuff. Under no circumstances should you be using oil not specifically designed for bike engines and wet clutches though, regular car oil will fry the clutch.

Chris

Chris ,
Do you think it is worth just trying the springs you suggested and seeing if that works or is it a waste of time.

And have you the site addressess for clutch and springs.

Also I meant Castrol R4 not G4.

I was told that R4 is not the best oil?

Cheers

[Edited on 1/9/04 by Lightning]

[Edited on 1/9/04 by Lightning]

Id stick with R4 if I were you, I used it for 2 years without any clutch slip. Ive changed to Redline now just because I was seeing high oil temperatures (120c +) with my new engine and Redline is meant to cope better with high temperatures than most, but Id happily use R4 again once I get an oil cooler installed.
Regarding just trying the springs, its worth a try although Id still take out the plates and have a look at them whilst youve got the cover off, if they are really worn and/or the steel plates are "blue'd" or even warped, then you might as well not bother as its unlikely to resolve the problem. If the steel's are blue'd then some fine emery paper might clean them up, but if they are bad or warped (stack them on top of each other and look for gaps) then you'll need to replace those as well

Chris

Try PDQ for Barnett springs. For EBC clutches I found EBC Direct the cheapest at the time, but if you want genuine Honda frictions, or steels then you'd need to go to your local dealer.

Chris

Thanks a lot Chris thats exactly what I was after. I will let you know how I get on
Cheers again!

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Try PDQ for Barnett springs. For EBC clutches I found EBC Direct the cheapest at the time, but if you want genuine Honda frictions, or steels then you'd need to go to your local dealer.

Chris

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We've ran EBC springs and Kevlar plates in both our cars (ZX9 & ZX12) almost since conception. That was over 2 years ago and we've never had a problem with clutch slip.

Of course, now I've said that...

when I first built my car I ran Castrol R4 and also got clutch slip! changed to EBC kevlar plates and stiffer springs and now use Plutoline Syntec 4 and have have no problems for 5k, ( I also change oil at 2k)

Ben

Steve, I think to be fair my feelings may be based mostly on historical information from about 3 years ago or so, when there were lots of people suffering clutch slip with EBC springs in blades and upon inspection their length were shrinking to below service limits within a few hundred miles.
I guess it was probably a bad few batches they supplied, but like I mentioned before Ive not heard of anything concrete to indicate they've rectified this and probably because of that quite a few people tend to steer clear of them even now, which then leads to not enough positive comments to risk using them when there are other more proven options out there for just over a tenner

Chris

[Edited on 2/9/04 by ChrisGamlin]

I've ordered EBC clutch thanks...

But whilst I was in the bike shop I saw these, anyone fitted these to a car?

Does anybody have the part number for the barnett springs?

I have got two numbers MT-79-05 and MT-05-05. The second one comes from Bike Torque Racing. The other from the link previous in post.

another quick question has anybody used the entire Barnett clutch kits as advertised from that company

Cheers

James

The ones I got were MT-99-5 which ISTR are actually listed as uprated Blackbird springs. PDQ recommended these for blades in BECs as I think they are a little stiffer than the regular uprated blade items, but the same overall dimensions.

A couple of friends have used full Barnett clutches in blade BECs and they seem to be really good, albeit expensive.

Chris

[Edited on 5/9/04 by ChrisGamlin]

Thanks Chris.

I will go with those springs (MT-99-05) and the barnett friction and steel plates. Going to get both and new springs to replace all lot in one go. first time i just changed friction plates but they are 120 for the full kit from Bike torque racing. Easier to do all in one go.

Cheers

Jim

[Edited on 5/9/04 by Jim]