My clutch is ok at the moment but no idea when it was last done and my box is clunky so wouldn't mind trying a clutch to see if it helps atall? I believe it's not too difficult but I also believe that it's worth getting somethings done right first time...

Dave

Its really easy, unbolt the clutch cover to reveal the clutch basket.

6 bolts through springs, undo these and then just remove the steels and driven plates.

If it's not slipping then changing will not do anything for a clunky gearbox, if it clunks and clonks then this is usual for a BEC, as long as it is not jumping out of gear.

Mine was felt rattly, mostly whe coasting as the engine was hunting a little but after a good tune up this resolved this.

Regards Mark

Mark's right. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Yup, bike gearboxes are very different to full synchromesh car ones.

Whereabouts in NW are you ? It's a large area

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Originally posted by NigeEss
Yup, bike gearboxes are very different to full synchromesh car ones.

Whereabouts in NW are you ? It's a large area

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Do you have the Westfield reverse box? It could also be a big part of your "clunks" (like on mine).
I just remove my reverse for maintenance and it's quite loose by hand, so imagine the sound it makes when changing gears...

quote:

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Originally posted by Smigga
I just fail to see how people get 4sec 0-60s when 1st n 2nd are so clunky?

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This might only be appropriate for bikes rather than bike engined cars, but I find changing up a few krpm before the redline allows for a quicker shift between 1 and 2. If I clutchless shift at the redline the thump is terrific, and half the time I get neutral instead. It does mean that you're losing some peak power, but it's a fair swap.

Also another technique that is from biking is to preload the shifter. If you apply pressure to the shift but not enough to actually change gear, then close the throttle briefly, the release of drive from the gears allows the gear shift to occur much quicker and smoother.

In both cases you leave the clutch engaged, so with regards to your original question I'd say it was a bit pointless to look at the clutch to fix the issue.

Don't get me wrong after 2nd I flick through the gears very quickly, 40-100 is really quick! It's the first 2 which lose pace of the mark and change downs are always a clunky affair...
Dave

measure the movement on your shift assembly - from memory you need at least 22mm both directions to get a clean change, if you have a little less than that on the up change direction.. it will struggle to mesh 1st to 2nd

quote:

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Originally posted by gixermark
measure the movement on your shift assembly - from memory you need at least 22mm both directions to get a clean change, if you have a little less than that on the up change direction.. it will struggle to mesh 1st to 2nd

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Your clutch doesn't sound broke, i.e it isn't slipping and/or the basket is attempting to leave the crankcase.

A Pinto/Zetec/Whatever mated to a suitable gearbox will fix your problem, but before you go that far, make sure that the prop line is in good health. Remove any extraneous items, reverse gearboxes, etc., check that the TRT is OK. Excessive gearbox clunks may well be rounded dogs, etc., you really don't want to go there until you have to.

Clunks may well be alleviated by the following launch procedure (or variants thereof): Hold engine at 8-10K (trial and error will get the required rpm level), drop the clutch. The car will move a little, the rear wheels will pretty quickly lose traction, at which time you lift a tad on the throttle pedal as you yank 2nd gear, don't touch the clutch. Put the throttle pedal back down again very quickly then adjust a tad - coming back of the throttle until traction ensues. Yank third with a quick partial throttle lift when appropriate.

quote:

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Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
Your clutch doesn't sound broke, i.e it isn't slipping and/or the basket is attempting to leave the crankcase.

A Pinto/Zetec/Whatever mated to a suitable gearbox will fix your problem, but before you go that far, make sure that the prop line is in good health. Remove any extraneous items, reverse gearboxes, etc., check that the TRT is OK. Excessive gearbox clunks may well be rounded dogs, etc., you really don't want to go there until you have to.

Clunks may well be alleviated by the following launch procedure (or variants thereof): Hold engine at 8-10K (trial and error will get the required rpm level), drop the clutch. The car will move a little, the rear wheels will pretty quickly lose traction, at which time you lift a tad on the throttle pedal as you yank 2nd gear, don't touch the clutch. Put the throttle pedal back down again very quickly then adjust a tad - coming back of the throttle until traction ensues. Yank third with a quick partial throttle lift when appropriate.

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Motorcycle_mayhem, without any offense intended, your 'building' tag suggests your launch recommendation isn't quite the healthiest method!

(Sorry, couldn't resist!)

[Edited on 23/5/12 by Slimy38]

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan

quote:

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Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
Your clutch doesn't sound broke, i.e it isn't slipping and/or the basket is attempting to leave the crankcase.

A Pinto/Zetec/Whatever mated to a suitable gearbox will fix your problem, but before you go that far, make sure that the prop line is in good health. Remove any extraneous items, reverse gearboxes, etc., check that the TRT is OK. Excessive gearbox clunks may well be rounded dogs, etc., you really don't want to go there until you have to.

Clunks may well be alleviated by the following launch procedure (or variants thereof): Hold engine at 8-10K (trial and error will get the required rpm level), drop the clutch. The car will move a little, the rear wheels will pretty quickly lose traction, at which time you lift a tad on the throttle pedal as you yank 2nd gear, don't touch the clutch. Put the throttle pedal back down again very quickly then adjust a tad - coming back of the throttle until traction ensues. Yank third with a quick partial throttle lift when appropriate.

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Then repeat with replacement engine
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Weird how every drive is different! Just had a quick 40 mins and tried changing with some revs at all times, basically resting my foot on the go pedal as I changed up, definitely smoother, I also tried reving to about 8-9k before 2nd, this Ive never done before and it did seem a bit happier (unless I just couldnt hear the clunk) I realised that I must normally change up at around 2k from 1st, obviously quite low revs......Ill keep at it...

Dave

2K!
Get a diesel!


Realistically your foot shouldnt come off the go pedal at all, just a very quick staccatto whilst the gearbox does the work as it comes off load

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Originally posted by ReMan
2K!
Get a diesel!


Realistically your foot shouldnt come off the go pedal at all, just a very quick staccatto whilst the gearbox does the work as it comes off load

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