Right i replaced the clutch in the mnr recently, all seemed to go to plan, replaced with another make of clutch friction, and yamaha steels. i'm
90% sure i put that stupid wire clip back in.
few drives later, and the clutch is slipping again. just stipped it down, wire clips gone (just draining oil and taking sump off to check for bits of
it) all the steels are fine, all but one friction is also fine, the back one has no material left at all.
first up has anyone got a drawing to rebuild it to.
second has anyone ditched the wire clip bit? do i need to get another looks like it just holds the anti rattle gubbins in place
Lots of people ditch the anti-rattle bits, particularly in race bikes/cars.
It's commonly said that you're best to stick with genuine frictions plates and lots of folks have had problems with aftermarket ones. Can
only say, from personal experience that I've had my original ones in for 18000miles now and not needed to change. Are you using standard springs?
Barnet h/duty ones are better in a BEC. Did you soak the plates in oil before fitting them?
u2u me your e-mail address and I'll try and send you the relevant section of the workshop manual.
Looks a bit more of an issue now, sumps off, about 30mm of the spring clip is in the sump, looks like engine out now to check for the rest of it in the gearbox
Not good!!! May be a silly idea but how about a few engine flushes to start off with? In the hope you find the remaining bits?
Bugger!
I'llsend youthe cluch section when I get in tonight but you can download the full manual from various places on the net... like
HERE
may as well get it out, got a few jobs that will be a lot easier with it out the way, it's all unplumbed now, just waiting on my brother to help lift it out
While your at it, drop the engine out, split the crankcase and renew the 1st through 4th gear clusters that will all have worn dogs. The selector drum
will have lost it's nibs too, so that can come out while you're there.... hey ho, I love my 5VY.
OK... clutch. Getting to the wire (if it's there, and your's helpfully isn't), means removing the basket. Saves a lot of grief, so pull
it off and do it on the bench. Your wire may have gone AWOL itself, entirely, making things easier. Remove the wire, anti judder spring and seat, the
silly half sized friction plate (the one that slips!) and throw away. Replace with full size friction plate. Add remaining pack as usual.
Enjoy.
why would 1 - 4 have worn dogs, i've only put about 5k on it so far and it was still changing gear nicely. the wire was in there, part of it fell out when the clutch cover came off, another small bit was in the sump ;-(
My race 5vy has done 26 races, numerous test days and a Birkett endurace race and the gearbox is fine. I suggest if you are getting through dogs and
drums you need to show a bit more mechanical sympathy when you change down the gears.
I removed the spring wire thing and the 2 spring plates and replaced with a full size friction plate, the clutch was very grabby and horrible after
ths. i put up with it for most of this season but had enough of it last weekend when it seemed to have got a lot worse and replaced it, putting the
the clutch back to normal with the springs etc. The clutch is far more user friendly now and i had my best start off the line all season. I use
standard clutch springs and standard plates and would suggest you use the same, mr Yamaha got it right so who are we to argue.
You are probably best to take the basket out to replace the wire spring though, its very tricky to do it right with it in place as you have to
compress the spring plates slightly to get the wire to seat in the groove properly
I take it you still swapped the half plate for a full size one?
quote:
Originally posted by RickRick
I take it you still swapped the half plate for a full size one?
This is what happened to the last clutch in the end, cant believe it still worked!!
The 2 spring plates are different, the first one to go in is the flat one, then the next is the domed one, with the pointy face pushed against the
first spring, then you put the half sized friction plate in which sits around the outside of the spring plates, next the steel plate goes in, which is
then held in by the wire thingy. hard to explain in words, i'll draw a diagram
Hope this helps. And also dont forget the last friction plate goes in at a different orientation to the rest, i.e. its site in the other cut outs that
are out of line with the rest.