Hi All

I'm conscious that the Cut-off switch topic has been done to death on here, but just wanted to get the opinion of experienced '10R owners before I went and did anything.

In short- for the smaller terminals that normally take the ignition and coils feeds, would it be acceptable to use the side stand lock-out switch instead?

I obviously need to wire up the switch so that that engine doesn't continue running under it's own power when I hit the kill switch, but need to do it in such a way that the ECU et al isn't destroyed by a voltage surge from the alternator still running on.

From what I can see on the diagram, the side stand lock-out switch should do the trick, if not another option could be the engine stop switch, which interfaces with the start circuit, ECU and regulator?

Is there anyone with a '10R powered car that's done this? Mine's a 2006/7 engine.

Thanks in advance guys,

Ben.

You could cut into the common live feed to the stick coils or to the injectors.

I was contemplating doing that actually, thanks :-)

I've had another look at the service manual and wiring diagram since I first posted. The ignition system checks include checking the operation of the lockout switches- apparently setting the side stand down (thus opening the switch) with the bike in gear and engine running will cause the engine to stop, so seems that this option is the way forward.

If there is still anyone out there with a 10R that's done this, please do drop me a line!

I'm going to resurrect this thread in the hope someone can answer another question for me...

So I'm happy with 2/3 of the wiring of this FIA switch (not done it yet):

Normally closed:
1. The major positive feed coming from the battery and then going to the starter relay (which powers the rest of the bike)
2. The engine stop switch normally mounted on the switch housing- must be closed to start/keep running

Normally open, closed when they key is turned/removed from the switch:
This is where I'm struggling, given that bike engines don't have an alternator per se, do I still need to use this part of the switch? This is the circuit connected to the grounded resistor to dump any surge in voltage when the master switch is used. Given that there's no alternator to keep the bike running, there should be no surge in voltage... So do I still need to wire this part of the switch up, or am I fine to do just the normally closed contacts? If I still need to wire this bit in, which wires do I use?

Cheers guys!

Ben.