OK.. I have just fitted Barnett uprated springs. I removed the originals one at a time so not to disturb anything. The new ones are longer than the
originals as you would suppose.
tried the clutch operation dry with the cover plate off to check movement was ok. Seemed OK. Replaced plate filled with oil. Ran engine, all good.
Tried clutch operation in the drive, all OK . Tried pulling away in the drive, still all OK.
Free wheeled down my drive ( steep hill) clutch in. Thought I had put it into next neutral but car stalled when stationary. Started car OK.
Disengaged clutch, horrible noise, went into gear but would not pull away. Stopped engine.
At this point I jumped to the incorrect conclusion that the previously repaired clutch spring post had failed. Wrong'
After removing the cover plate again, what has happened is the end clutch plate that the springs act on has pulled out too far and has gone past the
end of the cage. It has then rotated such that when released it has not returned into the basket groves.
The 6 million dollar question is why???
if the springs are stronger surely this is less likely or did I bugger it up when trying it with the cover plate off???
spring shouldnt make any difference as the longer spring should bind before it allows the plate to move out that far the only thing i can think that would do this is the master cylinder piston is larger than the kawasaki one thus making the piston travel longer but in all the years rebuilding engines this is the first time i have seen this happen
[img]http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/3IMAG0460.jpg[[/img]
[Edited on 22/5/13 by Lightning]
Over travel by the push rod.
Fit a pedal stop!
quote:
Originally posted by minitici
Over travel by the push rod.
Fit a pedal stop!
Thanks guys I came to the same conclusion . I have looked at putting a stop on the pedal.
Just an update. Put a lot stop on the pedal. Problem solved. There was no damage to the clutch.
Thanks guys