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New Sylva R1OT
fuzzy - 12/10/04 at 05:45 PM

New photos of Sylva R1OT car on there web sight now if anyone interested.

erwe - 12/10/04 at 05:54 PM

Of course we are!!

kipper - 12/10/04 at 07:37 PM

Can you give us a link please.
thanks, Kipper

mangogrooveworkshop - 12/10/04 at 07:54 PM

http://www.sylva.co.uk/r1ot.html


Heavens above its got a spaceframe chassis with aluminium floors and bulkheads.SG will upsize that to quarter plate Just incase! lol
ID 10 T if you crash this baby!

[Edited on 12-10-04 by mangogrooveworkshop]

rizla - 12/10/04 at 10:08 PM

that back end looks terrable imo

Alez - 13/10/04 at 07:18 AM

http://www.sylva.co.uk/r1ot.html

Very tidy and minimalistic, in the Locost style. I like it very much. Lots of flat panels, so very simple body (actually Sylva does not supply the whole bodywork, I guess you are supposed to build it out of sheet much like the book Locost). And even so it looks way better than the Mojo in my opinion. I also like the simple chain drive and having all four wheels outside the body with cycle wings. It can't get closer to "a bike on 4 wheels", I want one. One thing I don't like is the multi-donor approach, you can't just buy a donor plus a kit and build the thing. Instead, you need to buy parts from quite some different Fords (Fiesta, Escort, Capri) and Metro. It should give better chance for a finer design though, I suppose.

Any of you knows if any R1ot has actually passed SVA already? The one in the pics has lights but no seat belts!!

Cheers,

Alex


[Edited on 13/10/04 by Alez]

ned - 13/10/04 at 12:07 PM

surely it's just a bike engined/engineered mojo underneath.

Ned.

Alez - 13/10/04 at 12:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ned
surely it's just a bike engined/engineered mojo underneath.

Ned.


Yes, but at least to me this one looks like a true attept to make a Midi Locost BEC, the Mojo definitely looks like something else with all those rounded lines and fibre. This one is much more of a DIY project, the kit is by no means comprehensive, in a sense it's like returning to needing more hours to put it together (rather than cash)?

marktigere1 - 13/10/04 at 02:53 PM

I've fancied a Mojo before but decided against it.

This one looks good as well. I notice that the chassis is tubular and so cannot be a Mojo chassis with an R1 bolted on.

I think it looks great from the front but the back end looks unfinished to me.

Cheers

Mark

kb58 - 13/10/04 at 02:54 PM

The side diagonal tubes scare me. It's hard to tell how high they are... I hope they're not at "head-smashing" height. Some SFI-rated tubing cushion will be in order.

MikeRJ - 14/10/04 at 02:28 PM

I really like this, better looking than the mojo IMO. Wonder if they could offer this with a car engine...probably not enough room in the engine bay though.

liam.mccaffrey - 14/10/04 at 02:35 PM

i'm aiming fot my build to look somthing like this back end is ok, would look better totally enclosed, but thats not locost is it!

sgraber - 14/10/04 at 05:00 PM

quote:
Originally posted by kb58
The side diagonal tubes scare me. It's hard to tell how high they are... I hope they're not at "head-smashing" height. Some SFI-rated tubing cushion will be in order.



Reminder to self --- Every time I drive this car, I will wear a helmet, every time I drive this car, I WILL wear a helmet! - I think it's designed so you have to wear a helmet. The wind deflector windscreen is the giveaway.



But even so, I really, REALLY like this car and the fun factor seems very, VERY high! Yeah, I would buy one, but I would re-design the rear. I mean even a 7 has a better looking rear....

David Jenkins - 15/10/04 at 03:25 PM

Big review here:

http://www.totalkitcar.com/tested.php

I think he likes it...

David

Sven - 25/10/04 at 01:48 AM

Any ideas from anyone how a diff is modified to a chain drive? Any particular diffs, preferably available in the US, that the mod can be done to?

I really really like the idea of a mid engined transverse BEC.

-Steve

Hugh Jarce - 25/10/04 at 03:00 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Sven
Any ideas from anyone how a diff is modified to a chain drive? Any particular diffs, preferably available in the US, that the mod can be done to?

I really really like the idea of a mid engined transverse BEC.

-Steve


Steve, this very topic was covered some time ago in this particular forum. Try a search. Basically, any diff will do (with a custom drilled sprocket), but some are better than others. The VW Golf/Rabbit has a nice little diff that directly fits some commercial bearings on the carrier stubs. The sprocket is bolted onto the outside of the ring gear flange.
The other advantage of the Golf is the huge selection of axles available. As the diffs are off-set in the car, the axles are different lengths. Multiply that by the number of different lengths from the various different models and that gives you quite a selection.
The only other thing to do then is to spin/turn an aluminium "bucket" to go over the diff to keep the muck out and some oil in. The bucket is sealed with O-rings at both ends and is held in place by the sprocket bolts.
You'll also have to weld a filler/drain bung into the bucket.
Dead simple really.

This photo shows a very crude Golf diff set-up (minus the bucket), but you get the idea.
There's no necessity for twin discs by the way. Rescued attachment Golf_diff_02.jpg
Rescued attachment Golf_diff_02.jpg

ceebmoj - 25/10/04 at 10:03 AM

I am doing this at the moment with a miny diff witch is used by a number of others (jedi) for this type of application the only down side is that the crown weal makes up half of the diff casing and as such you need to machine the teeth off (I used an angel grinder with the lath as it is very hard).

However I was in a land rover garage the other day and there was a frelander diff (I am reasonably sure it was a freelander diff but I can check) witch the crown weal came strait off and you could bolt your sprocket on in its place. Surprisingly the diff felt ligter than the miny one I have and it is a lot more compact.

So much so that I am considering building up a second diff using the land rover parts and instead of the miny one but I will see ho the first one turns out and go fro there.

I was thinking of mounting my disk directly on to the diff to I am however unsure whether to mount a single car disk and caliper or a couple of bike disks and calipers I have been looking in to the cost of castings for an alloy cast that will take the disk and bolt on with a small spun bucket on the other side to keep the oil in.

Blake

edited to add

I am also using a split sprocket so that I can change the ratio very easely.

[Edited on 25/10/04 by ceebmoj]

Hugh Jarce - 25/10/04 at 09:54 PM

I think you'll find most diffs have bolt-on crown wheels (ring gears in the US).
As the rear end will require much less braking than the front, I would only fit one disc and caliper. A 6mm-8mm thick disk would be plenty and a bike disc would be fine. I would also use a bike caliper if the car was for track use only. If it were for road use, then you'll require a mechanical handbrake built into the caliper. The Golf/Rabbit rear caliper (see photo below) is one of the smallest and most compact handbrake calipers I know of and they're quite simple to mount.
Another option worth considering, is fitting a Quaiffe ATB diff in place of a Golf (or whatever) diff. If you're interested, I got the Fiesta ATB diff drawing from Quaiffe a few years ago, but it's basically the same for all models. If you're in the UK, then the Fiesta diff could be a good idea, as it too uses odd length axles. The main difference between the Golf and Fiesta diffs is that the Golf uses the more familiar Cardan CV joint, while the Fiesta uses the Tripod type CV. Horses for courses. Rescued attachment Budweg_Golf-1.8-II_rear_caliper.jpg
Rescued attachment Budweg_Golf-1.8-II_rear_caliper.jpg

skint scotsman - 8/9/05 at 08:05 AM

reviving an old thread here does any body have a pic of the bucket the made/ accuired for keeping all the greasy bits in??

ChrisGamlin - 8/9/05 at 11:38 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Hugh Jarce
As the rear end will require much less braking than the front, I would only fit one disc and caliper.


Hows that going to work then? Unless you're running a solid rear axle (which I assume you're not considering we're talking diffs here) then youve got to have two discs / calipers, one on either side of the diff, otherwise you'll get all sorts of odd braking behaviour.

Coose - 8/9/05 at 12:00 PM

Magic dust.....

MonkeyHunter - 8/9/05 at 12:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
quote:
Originally posted by Hugh Jarce
As the rear end will require much less braking than the front, I would only fit one disc and caliper.


Hows that going to work then? Unless you're running a solid rear axle (which I assume you're not considering we're talking diffs here) then youve got to have two discs / calipers, one on either side of the diff, otherwise you'll get all sorts of odd braking behaviour.


Not if its a LSD, as the diff will apportion the the breaking effort to the wheels.

Rorty - 8/9/05 at 01:02 PM

Yes, it's asumed the diff is a LSD.

Bob C - 8/9/05 at 03:10 PM

Even with LSD a single back brake would pull you all over the place - unless it was on the prop?? Viscous LSD would pull sideways, a locking sort would do horrid things wouldn't it?
Who's going to disconnect 1 back brake to try this in anger???????????Who would write the test results (AKA obituary)
Bob

ChrisGamlin - 8/9/05 at 05:03 PM

Agreed Bob, my car's got an LSD but if I jack up one side I can still turn the other rear wheel. This in effect would be what a single caliper would do, try to lock one wheel up and let the other fight against the diff / road wheel forces. I really cannot see it working at all unless it was a totally locked diff.

kb58 - 8/9/05 at 05:54 PM

It's my understanding that (only?) a Quaife type LSD will have the desired feedthrough/feedback behaviour.

KJK - 8/9/05 at 07:42 PM

has passed sva ,and is not just a modified mojo ,the diff is from a fiesta with the crown wheel removed and replaced with sprocket.

Rorty - 8/9/05 at 09:21 PM

It will work with any of the torque bias type diffs such as those from Quaiffe, Torsen, Peloquin etc.