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It's one of the ideas for my new car. I already have those brakes on my track day car and the are perfect.
Does it work?
Any reactions?
I am planing on somthing simaler what are the disks and calipers?
I have just finished converting my diff this weakend only a small amount of finishing on the bering carriers required and then I will be starting the
disk mounting. I am using a miny diff however
quote:
Originally posted by erwe
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0248.JPG
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0249.JPG
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0250.JPG
It's one of the ideas for my new car. I already have those brakes on my track day car and the are perfect.
Does it work?
Any reactions?
Hi
are they for a road car? how are you going to rig the hand brake?
but otherwise they should work very well, the only reason bike brakes can be a problem in cars is if ther outboard then the hoses and nipples are in
the wrong places, this obviously isnt a problem for you.
I would build those support brackets out of something more substantial than acrylic but otherwise looks like a great idea...
Cheers
Looks very good to me!
Jaguar used to use the same arrangement on their rear axle/break set-up. Also it should help to reduce the unsprung mass of the car as well.
Nick
Looks good Rob!
Keep up the good work!
Sorry to be a misery, but i ran the same setup on my car for a short while, it didnt work for two reasons.
A- could never stop grease from the lobro joints getting onto the discs, and contaminating the pads.
B- dunno about your diff, but mines a LSD from a 4x4 sierra, and the output flange on the LSD side has a lot of lateral play i.e about 5mm, this
caused the disk to rub on the caliper, i even made the caliper float to try and combat the problem, but in the end junked the setup.
Good luck with it, i hope you triumph where i failed, it does look very nice.
Oh and as mentioned, getting a working handbrake is very difficult too.
Nearly forgot to mention, the awesome stopping power of those brakes is waaay to much for such a lightweight car, i ran out of adjustment on the bias
bar, and had to fit an inline restrictor from a fiat uno,to stop them locking up, the rear brakes are virtually disabled, before correct bias is
achieved.
If i built another car i would use drums, no kidding.
Al.
i]Originally posted by erwe
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0248.JPG
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0249.JPG
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=EPSN0250.JPG
It's one of the ideas for my new car. I already have those brakes on my track day car and the are perfect.
Does it work?
Any reactions?
It looks like a nice idea, as said above it will dramatically reduce the unsprung mass, the only problem that I can see is that inboard systems have a
tendency to overheat in hard use or racing. However, its good to be different!
Andy
overheating could be sorted with some well placed ducting. would be excellent if it could be made to work. What about putting a bigger brake onto the
front of the diff, sandwiched in by the prop?
That would work with a locked diff but will only stop one wheel in normal use. The inboard joint is supposed to slide as part of the design isn't it, like the front joint on a propshaft?
Brake is for my race car,however it is very simple to add some kart caliper for handbrake.
That grease could be a problem but I can seal is with tape. It did the same because I had to find a place for the magnet of my bicycle speedo. I taped
it to the lobro and it is still there.
The lateral play is easy to adjust with the big (notched) ring on the outside.
Because I have the same configuration on my car the stopping power is not to much, it's just perfect. I even use very soft pads (they last 3
track days).
The overheating is not a real problem with the right ducts. A brake on the prop is not possible. It's just to big and I think the dif can hold
the forces in the 'wrong' way as there is a special shape on the teeth.
Can the 'bike' disc and calliper set up be replicated for the front?
I am thinking of fitting bike discs at the rear with Sierra callipers and the Honda Goldwing discs (6mm thick) and bike callipers at the front.
Any comments?
Regards
Is there anyone who makes special bells to fit bike discs outboard on a car?
Adam
I think using bike brakes on the front you need larger disks and also 6 pot caliper (very expensive). its wiser to have willwood or make your own
uprights.
Rear is no problem: let say a bike is 200 kg so braking weight on the front (at the start of braking) is 2/3 * 200 is 135 kg at the start. This weight
will be more the longer you brake
On the rear of a car this will do.
I make teh bells on a very cheap lathe, it's not really difficult:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=12919&pid=114363
Any tips on or pictures of the bells? I am really interested in this.
Put some detailed pics in my photo section
From which bike did those discs come from?
Looks really cool. I will definitely go for bike discs at the rear.
Cheers
Caliper ZZR 1100 or 750
Disks Honda VFR 1100 which is not a good choise because they are hard to get.
Anything will do as log they are about 6 mm thick and between 260 and 320 mm dround.
I was thinking of using rear bike discs for the rear since they are smaller. I found some with 150mm ID and 260mmOD. However maximum thickness for
rears is 4-5mm. Would you think that woudl be ok?
What was the weight saving/disc over the normal Sierra disc?
Drums are much lighter (I threw mine away!!) but then they just don't look right behind the rim of a 'sports/cool car' right?
Weight of disk and caliper about 1 kg.
Only a sierra disk is a few kg...
My disks are 270 mm and work OK on a 450 kg car and track use only. I really use the brakes! Only problem is that they won't fit on a 13"
alloy, that's the main reason for mounting them near to the diff. Also weight saving on the wheel side.
But with these disks you want bigger wheels because it looks very good.
That was one of my worries, that they wouldn't fit under 13s
I am going for a set of OZ Superleggera cool rims. Thay are 15 inch and weigh at 4.8kg/rim which is probably only slightly more than a 13 inch.
if your thinking of useing bike calipers outboard the problem is that the hoses and nipples are in the wrong place ie the outside edge rather than the
side.
i am makeing up my own six pots useing the pistons from hyabusea calipers, but its a bit involved! im also useing 10" wheels so its a very tight
fit!.
pictures on my website
I will test the car this week and see if it works.
I must mount some brake duct for extra cooling on the side of the car
Rescued attachment EPSN0014.jpg
Awesome bit of engineering! I'd be very interested to hear about the results...
Have you thought about the brake bias yet? i.e. Overly powerful for the rear end of a lightweight car?
Good luck,
Chris
looks great, and tempting cos i have a set of bike brakes in the garage!
quote:
Originally posted by Winston Todge
Have you thought about the brake bias yet? i.e. Overly powerful for the rear end of a lightweight car?
