I'm in the process of turboing my ZX12 engine so am looking to source a set of higher flow injectors at a reasonable price. Does anyone have any
suggestions where I might get them?
The stock ones are around 330cc as far as I know, I'm planning on running 7-8 psi boost so am thinking 440cc would be ok.
Any help appreciated.
I have been told by many people that 08-10 zx10 injectors are 440cc, I have a set of these on my turbo ZX9, at 7psi of boost and 181bhp (not very good turbo manifold) duty cycle was still down at around 70% duty cycle.
quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
I have been told by many people that 08-10 zx10 injectors are 440cc, I have a set of these on my turbo ZX9, at 7psi of boost and 181bhp (not very good turbo manifold) duty cycle was still down at around 70% duty cycle.
Please tell me more about your project! I would love to turbo mine at some point!
Just did some more searching and someone had theirs flow tested and only came out at 300ish cc, but I have seen in multiple other places that they are
440cc, best to look into it more.
Running Megasquirt 2, wasted spark, ZX10 throttle bodies. One thing that supports the thought that they are 440cc injectors is that I entered into the
ECU that they are 440cc for it to compute the right injector pulse width. My fuel map looks very regular with idle VE values being in the 20's, I
would have thought that if they were 330cc these numbers would be much greater to get enough fuel if the ECU thinks they are 440cc.
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Please tell me more about your project! I would love to turbo mine at some point!
That sounds great! Do you have any pictures of your handy work? Whereabouts in the country are you?
The answer to which injectors are good and high flow and cheap is normally bosch from a saab/volvo turbo from a scrappy.
I only have experience of gsxr though so don't know what fits a zx12, google suggests zx14 might offer an (imperfect) solution.
I do think that injectors are one area where locost is achievable (you don't have to spend £100/injector), my s2000 injectors I got 4 for £60 (or
so).
The other option would be staged injection. If all the injectors are high resistance then megasquirt can be easily set up to drive two sets.
Sounds like an interesting project.
Matt
Thanks for the replies.
I've been investigating the ZX14 injectors as an option but there seems to be differing opinions as to whether they are 330cc or greater. Will
look at the Saab/Volvo as a option.
I've a more urgent problem to deal with at the moment. Tried to start the engine on Saturday but getting no oil pressure at all. I'm just
turning the engine over with the starter with no plugs in but cannot get any pressure at all. I took off the oil pressure sensor and turned it over,
no sign of oil being pumped at all. I tried taking off the filter and poring in oil, no difference. I removed the oil pump, it looks a little worn so
have ordered new parts for it today but don't think it's what was causing the problem. I was really worried I had done something wrong
putting the engine back together but having done some searching yesterday now realise it's a common problem with priming the ZX12 oil pump.
twybrow, I'm in Ireland, Dublin area. Will post some pics when I get back to it, was going to take some on Sat but my problems with the oil
pressure got in the way!
Oil pickup is all okay, o-ring installed? I know that some bikes only hold a couple of PSI of oil pressure on tickover so that might be what you are
experiencing however I would have thought you would have oil pumping though.
One thing people do, not sure what bike engine, is take the clutch cover and basket off and with a hand drill spin the oil pump gear to get the oil
system primed and pumping for startup on a freshly assembled engine.
Dave
gsxr1100 can be a pain for getting oil pressure too if you have removed the pick-up.
Various tricks (vasoline in pump to get it to suck).
Or electric drill on oil pump (best solution, but you have to remove the clutch which is annoying).
Or removing a high pressure oil line and filling from that.
Some people slightly remove the oil filter to help things get started.
Regarding low oil pressure on tick-over, this is only really found once the oil is hot. With cold oil you can get the oil pressure light to go off.
Think I have finally got my oil pressure problems sorted. Removed the clutch and spun the oil pump with a drill and with a bit of messing about got it
pumping. My new oil pump parts arrived today so going to fit them and prime it again and put it all back together again. Hopefully will get it running
tomorrow.
Question for dave_424 and anyone using Megasquirt, are you using a single fuel map? Also ignition advance in boost. I'm thinking 1-2 degree
retard per psi? I'd like to be a bit conservative on this to begin with.
I probably should mention that I'm planning to do the mapping myself. I've made a rig, I suppose you'd call a dyno using a car torque
converter that I pump water through to create load. I've attached a load cell to give me a torque reading. It's no replacement for a proper
dyno but hope to be able to map using it.
Sounds good, I run a single fuel and spark map pictured below
This was mapped at Bailey Performance, nothing really that special in the setup, I set overboost protection at 10psi (I run 7psi of boost) to cut 6 of
6 sparks (all sparks) so you have a definite indication if you are overboosting and there is a problem. It also lets the engine run rich as the sparks
are cut helping the situation.
Overrun fuel cut is off, not through any experience of mine but people reported driveline shunt and clunkyness with it turned on, but you could save
fuel with it on.
For rev limiter, retarding to 10 deg at 11900 and cutting all sparks at 12000 gives a nice rev limiter that we hit a couple of times in this video
I've got a new manifold in the making, larger diameter and much better transition to the turbo flange which should solve my big lag with a small
turbo. However I managed 181bhp (140 standard) from 6-7psi from a TD04 13T turbo. No clutch issues as of yet.