In my efforts to build a " different mousetrap" rather than a better mousetrap and using a Suzuki TL V twin turned sideways so I can run a prop directly from the output flange. all well and good, the engine is in the position where I want it, it clears all the places where I want, everything fits where I want, all well and good except for one thing, when I measured the output position of the flange the engine was in its bike and I failed to take into account the engine would have to rotate about its centreline and effectively move the position up and outboard of the centreline of the car which has now created a conflict of clutch and brake pedal and propshaft position. in fact I don't think I can get both feet in the footwell with the prop in position!!!.
I have been giving this plenty of thought, and have come up with 3 options.

1, Change the engine type---- not really an option, as its the engine I want to use.
2, Change the car to LHD, its an option but the steering parts for the LHD conversion are few and far between, and very expensive when they do turn up.
3, make or purchase a drop box which will enable be to reposition the prop nearer the centreline of the car, somewhere I believe I have seen a reverser box that does this.

I know the pic is not very clear but it might help. and a link to the build.. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/152938/austin-7-box-saloon

Interesting problem.

First question. How long is the single piece prop and what rpm is it going to rotate at?
There are some issues with long props (resonances) have you worked the numbers out on that?


Regarding the positioning.
This is not a new problem.
The solutions normally involve shuffling the engine across (to the left)
Having something of a dog-leg in the prop.

Not sure it will be so easy for you though as I can imagine it is nice to have the engine on the centreline for aesthetic reasons.


More photos would be nice.

Matt

You will almost certainly need a two piece prop, with a centre bearing.

Description

The prop is going to be around 53/54"

Earlier I was all for ripping it out and starting again with a more traditional power unit, 4age is reasonably small.
Leaving the prop in its position it is now, it is 9" off the floor and about 8" off centre
But thinking laterally If I extend the output sprocket by about 30mmand if I can get it supported, I can make a chain or belt transfer box by mounting some sort of Plumber block on the chassis, downside is the engine is going to be mounted quite rigidly, the prop can easily be run via a flange off the back of the plumber block/s

I would stick a remote oil fliter on it and move the engine across 3", no reason it has to be in the middle, balance it up with a battery tray in front of your feet.

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
I would stick a remote oil fliter on it and move the engine across 3", no reason it has to be in the middle, balance it up with a battery tray in front of your feet.

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You need to support the end of those extended sprockets and you'd want some kind of chain catcher down near your feet.

In 7's hardmounting isn't a problem.
But you might worry about using your engine as a stressed unit as I guess your chassis might be a big floppier.


Alternative bike engines are available.

I realise I will need to support the extended sprocket, those ones are the wrong spline, they are Hayabusa and 15 spline, mine is 13, If I can the dimension from the output shaft to the machined hole in the centre of the clutch cover, a support should be quite easy to machine, another engine was on the shopping list this morning,
Urathane bushes are already on the shelf, one side is easy as there is a long bolt that goes right thru a cast tube which is sitting on the chassis at the moment, other mounts will be a bit more challenging and you are right, A7 chassis are notoriously flexible