On my R1 the oil level light comes on when driving. It happens either on track at high revs or at certain constant revs; Like 7-8000 but OK just above or below.

It's a common complaint and the suggested causes are the angle of the engine in the car (unlikely as it's known in the bike), vibration, frothing of the oil (float sinks)...

Anyway I've finally got fed up of it when in France/Italy last month. Now I could just disconnect it, but it's handy to know the level is OK, even if I can only trust it at idle. So I thought why don't I put a button in the circuit so it's just "push to check"... then I thought I could put it through a relay, triggered by the neutral or handbrake light.

So which do you think?

Hi
I was always led to believe that yes the engine is at a different angle in a car
And therefore you need to fit a baffle plate in the sump, so as not to loose oil pressure mostly in bends on track.
On our R1 engine the level switch you refer to is not a level switch , but a pressure
switch, & not a good idea if it comes on, as it means you'r loosing pressure.
Ok you could say a level light but if you rely on it as such to top up you engine will go bang.
We did away with ours & fitted a mechanical oil pressure switch & gauge
Along with a baffle plate.
Good luck.
René

I have no oil problems. I've got a sump baffle (sensor float sits above this anyway), the required breather mod's, oil pressure and temp gauges, oil stat and oil cooler.

The oil light on the R1 dash is a level light switched by the float switch in the sump. It's a well known fault that it comes on when driving/riding. Just look on the R1 and Fazer forums for the complaints. Mines been doing this for 6years and over 20,000.

How exactly have you managed to use a boss into the sump the measure oil pressure? Mine is from a sensor in the main oil gallery and others drill the oil cooler bolt.




One day I'll remember to make the last option in a poll as...
4. I'll answer a completely different different question.


[Edited on 22/7/14 by adithorp]

If the oil pressure is still up when the warning light comes on, I would go for option 3.

Hi
We drilled & tapped the oil cooler bolt for the capillary,
left the whole thing in the sump as its a pressure relief valve
& just cut the wire.
Are we talking about the same thing ?.

quote:

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Originally posted by renetom
...On our R1 engine the level switch you refer to is not a level switch , but a pressure
switch, & not a good idea if it comes on, as it means you'r loosing pressure....


...left the whole thing in the sump as its a pressure relief valve
& just cut the wire...

Are we talking about the same thing ?.

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Apologies
The pressure relief valve I was thinking about is below the oil sump strainer
The oil level sensor is what I should have been thinking about
we just cut the wire as it was a pain in the proverbial.
just check the sight glass is showing oil to the top of it.
We have done nearly 2000 miles never had to top it up & no oil in the catch tank.
It does mention the fault in the Yamaha
workshop manual, like you said.

[Edited on 23/7/14 by renetom]

Mine comes on if I do a sustained 8k rpm or more on a long road . It also stays on for the full session on a track day. As soon as I come off the track the light goes off. I just think of it as my "Giving it some" light

I've got a sump baffle, breather mod, front mount oil cooler, and oil tempo and pressure sensors. I keep my eye on the pressure sensor when on track, and it has never dropped, so I don't worry

Hi
No disrespect but why would you want to keep this ?
Its unreliable gives false readings, even more so in a car
because of the engine angle.
Even Yamaha admit its little better than tits on a boar.

It proper gets on my hampton cos my brain's programmed to panic the second a light comes on on a dashboard.

I like the sound of the neutral / relay idea, if you go for it let us know how it goes.

quote:

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Originally posted by renetom
Hi
No disrespect but why would you want to keep this ?

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I like the neutral idea too. I spend too much time trying to "ignore" the red light, but don't want to give up the indicator altogether. Bugger, now another project...

Before I read all the posts I went for the neutral light option as I spend a lot more time in neutral and hardly ever use the handbrake. Then I read you hardly ever use neutral! Mine isn't connected in my car (5VY as you know). I don't see this as a problem much anyway. Once you've had a vehicle a while you get to know how much oil it consumes and under what conditions. My 2 stroke 250 motorcycle uses a similar system. The oil level light for the 2 stroke oil tank comes on as a check light when it's in neutral. It's a check so you know the bulb us working. If it comes on in gear (rather when the neutral light is out) then you need to top the oil tank up.
So I think oil level light should be orange and should only come on in neutral. Orange because it's a warning- not a 'switch off immediately' light. You have the low pressure light for that- which I'd make big and bright so you can't miss it!