Im going to try to make a contraption as patented by the Hellfire team to try to run my manual CBR1000 speedo off my diff output flange.

I am in the process of aquiring a CBR1000 speedo drive box - i assume this takes its drive from the front wheel of the bike?

So in theory all i need is a longer than standard cable so that is will reach from the diff flange to the dashboard?

Does anyone know if the
Oh and a bit of advice from Hellfire on working out the ratios involved

Col, don't forget our speedo pickup is electronic and not cable driven. Initially we built up the pick up wheel to get the speedo reading somewhere near and use a speedohealer to fine tune the reading.

Ah bugger!

I have just had a U2U from 'Dickieboy' saying that the CBR1000 had its speedo pickup from the drive sprocket not the wheels.

Would this mean that if you cnaged the sprocket ratios or wheel tyse sizes the speedo would then read way out?

I bought a speedo sender off ebay CLICKY can anyone confirm if this is for the sprocket shaft? Its not splined in any way on the inside and im not site if the sprocket shaft is tapered either - so i cant figure out how it would drive it?

Depends on which model CBR you have. Early CBR speedos ran from the front wheel, in later models the speedo was driven from the engine sproket.

Ta

Shandylegs

Now just looked at the picture (Doh!). Will check when I get home as I have both versions of the engine!

[Edited on 13/1/05 by Shandylegs]

Nice one mate,

Thanks

Col

Just had a quick check of my spare engine (Later type) and the speedo drive is built into into the sproket cover plate. So by processs of elimination you must have a wheel hub drive from a cbr1000 h or j model.

Hope this makes sense, cheers

Shandylegs

I have a CBR, but just opted for the Sigma bicycle computer, and routed the pick-up to the rear axle - these are super accurate and easy to calibrate, light, and do other things, like max speed and average speed.

on my bike engine and i think al the honda after 92 or something..

are driven by the think on the sproket NUT!!

regards.

the fact that its electronically is just what you need.

i'm sure that i can help you with it and for 8 pounds you have a converter..

consisting of 1 PCB manually soldered
1 Chip
1 var. resistance
2 screw things
1 7805

and a pair resistors and a pair of transistors

then its a easy job to "Fool" the dash

and with the var res you can adjust the speed

while they are doing the test (on sva)
after it passed you drop a drupple of 1second glue and there you go!

TKS

the clue is that electronics don't costs nothing a metal sheet is expensiver..


if your hubs have ABS then you could use that sensor perfectly..(front wheel example)



[Edited on 18/1/05 by tks]