Are there any electrical wizards in Bristol area.
Currently on second loom and second ECU, just keep blowing fuses, have been on this for 6 weeks and it's doing my head in.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Paul 07748400025
Paul, you don't need someone who knows Kawasaki, just someone that knows wiring! You don't say which Kwak you have - do you have a wiring
diagram? - if not get one, usually available on the net, without a wiring diagram the job is far harder.
If you have a circuit(s?) that blows a fuse, then there is either a short on that circuit going to earth, or there is something drawing more than the
fuse can supply, neither should be hard to solve, it's just applying logic & gradually working thro' it
Hi, Thanks for your response,
I have a Z1000 B7, yes I have a wiring diagram and have purchased ECU and loom from USA, to eliminate immobiliser problems, I am aware of the need for
a resistor in the ECU trigger and have purchased delete link for exhaust servo.
Really running out of ideas to solve this now as last night I tried unplugging all the sensors and the relays and it still blows,then tried without
the ECU plugged in nothing happened at all, as I would expect.
Any ideas would be welcome.
Is it just 1 fuse that blows? If so trace from wiring diagram EXACTLY what that fuse feeds (may be more than 1 item), then trace wiring colour through
to confirm it is connected to the correct place, it sounds to me as tho' possibly there is a mismatch between the loom & the ECU
I don't know much about the Z1000, but for instance the old ZX10 & ZZR1100 were almost identical engines in terms of ignition management, but
you couldn't swap the ECU from ZZR1100 to ZX10 or vice versa because there were differences in the loom which affected what pins were being
connected to what sensors from the ECU
Is the Z1000 similar to the Zx10R & ZZR1400 in that it has a set of relays encased in a block (looks like another ECU), the problem could lie
there rather than with the ECU?
Have you wired an earth switched wire as a positive? The neutral light switch as an example. Clutching at straws really.
I definitely have the right loom and ECU, and allegedly the right relay box ( according to identification numbers) the only part of the loom I have
used throughout is the starter solenoid and wiring links, eg main 30a fuse this is wired to a FIA master switch.
Clutching at straws again.
I will try linking loom straight to battery ?????
Paul, what fuse(s) are blowing?
It's the ECU fuse everytime
Without seeing wiring diagram difficult to advise, on the ZZR1400 there is no ECU fuse, but an IGN fuse which feeds the ECU, the relay box &
multitudes of other things, you need to look at the diagram & see what EXACTLY that fuse is feeding.
The ECU will normally be fed via the relay box, so I would be looking at where the feed goes when it leaves the relay box, I'm assuming that if
you disconnect relay box the fuse doesn't blow?
saying all that it might be worth speaking to these guys as their in your area and do mobile call outs, after all you say you've been at this for
6 weeks...
Bristol Auto Electrical Linky
That's correct, if I disconnect the relay box nothing happens, I'm off to buy a bucket load of fuses and keep disconnecting things until it stops blowing, I have a suspicion that my first option is to remove the solenoid, I'll still put a large fuse in the system and see what happens.
quote:
Originally posted by paulwilson92
I'll still put a large fuse in the system and see what happens.
You could put a 6 inch nail in & see which bit of wire smokes! But I don't think that's a good idea either, as I said trace the wiring
from the diagram, something has to be going to earth somewhere.
The main feeds into the loom come from the solenoid, but if there was a problem from there you would expect the solenoid supply fuse to blow
As I said, the only part of the whole loom that I have used throughout is the solenoid and it's links that's with both looms and ECU's, I will disconnect everything from the engine and see what happens.
Spent the evening trying different combinations, ended up with nothing connected except one plug on the ECU and it still blows fuse.
The resistor fitted to the grey wire I understand is supposed to reduce voltage and be the trigger for the ECU, does anyone know what voltage that
should be?
quote:
Originally posted by paulwilson92
Spent the evening trying different combinations, ended up with nothing connected except one plug on the ECU and it still blows fuse.
The resistor fitted to the grey wire I understand is supposed to reduce voltage and be the trigger for the ECU, does anyone know what voltage that should be?
As far as I can tell from diagram and testing the ECU plugs there are two power supplies, one from fuse box (the one that keeps blowing) and one via
resistor.
Q, Does the supply via resistor need to power ECU before the other supply is powered up? there are three earth leads coming from the ECU to earth
point, if I disconnect these I wont get a circuit ?
When you say "fitted to the grey wire", you do mean the resistor is connected in series with the grey wire, you've not put the 100ohm
resistor to earth (tho' even if you have thenthat should only draw just over 1/10 of an amp)
Are you saying that with ECU connected, but relay box not connected it still blows the fuse?
& yes, if you disconnect the earths (should all be black with yellow tracer) then you won't have a circuit
That's correct, ECU connected and relays disconnected, still blows fuse !
Are all the earths black with yellow tracer - if not one of them isn't an earth!
Does the ECU have 2 plugs to it? If so disconnect one & see if still blows fuse, then disconnect the other & try, you now know which plug the
problem is on, you need to look at wiring colour from fuse that blows (make sure you are looking at output side) & check where that wire is going
to on the ECU
If you use the wiring diagram this really should be a fairly simple exercise 
Yes, the ECU has two plugs and with just one plug connected it still blows fuse, I have pulled plug off and tested for power from each connection and the only power supply is from white/ black trace which comes from fuse box ( the one that's blowing)
so when the ecu goes live it is feeding power to one of the wires you currently have connected to earth would be my guess; disconnect all 3 earth
wires,, fit the fuse & assuming it doesn't blow then connect the single ECU plug that you have the problem on & then touch each of those
"earth wires" to earth, 2 will probably be fine the 3rd will spark & if you do more than flash it across to earth will blow fuse. If
you're going to be making sparks make sure there is nothing flammable to hand!
If you are saying that it blows the fuse even with all other sensors & relay box disconnected then I can't see it being anything other than
one of those 3 wires you have as earths
I was thinking that was my next move, once I've identified the earth that's shorting I will trace it back to it's origin and check for
resistance/ continuity etc.
I'm guessing that if the ECU has three earths that it needs all three to work correctly ?
probably not, sometimes additional earths are simply "insurance" or to help counter any interference from other circuits, but I have a strong suspicion you may find one of those 3 isn't meant to be earthed at all!
Are you sure ? I haven't got the wiring diagram in front of me at the mo but i'm pretty sure they all go to main earth point and have ring connector for bolting down.
No, not at all sure as I don't have either the car or the wiring diagram in front of me, but working on the assumption that the white/black wire
you have going to the ECU is connected to the right pin (white black is normally live on Kwak loom), which unless ECU & loom are mismatched or
have been bastardised has to be correct, then unless there is actually a short within the ECU (never, ever heard of such a thing) then when you feed
the ECU with that live, one of the pins that is subsequently coming live at the ECU HAS to be short circuited to earth, only other possibility is that
when ECU goes live it is connecting a pin to earth that you have a positive feed to.
It's possible it's not one of those 3 "earths" that are the problem, but if not there HAS to be another wire/pin which when the
ECU goes live is either becoming live & is connected to earth or is becoming earthed & you have a live feed going to it.
If the examination of the earths doesn't work I would suggest next remove the feed via the 100 ohm resistor that you have on the grey wire &
see what effect that has
Just one further thought, some Kwak looms have a blue wire rather than grey which is the one you need the 100ohm resistor in series with, have you
checked the wiring dig to see where the grey wire you've added the resistor to is normally connected, the dig should show it going to the
ignition switch if you have the right wire
[Edited on 16/2/18 by russbost]
Hmmm, a few thing to try there over the weekend.
Yes, the grey wire goes from ECU to ign switch and one of the relays, I can also try just powering up the ECU via grey. I will also see if I can
eliminate the earth lead that is causing the problem, trouble is most of the earth's are linked together within the loom but I'm sure there
is a way, it can only come from the same ECU plug that has the white/black feed in it.
Really appreciate your help.
Can I assume that you have an early i.e pre 2003 carbed Z1000?
In which case ignore the grey resistor wire for the time being, that is purely an anti theft device and has nothing to do with the ECU running, with
that wire disconnected the engine won't start, everything else will still run.
It's a 2007 B7 engine,
my main concern is to stop the ECU power fuse blowing at the mo, once I've sorted that the rest should be fairly simple.
Are you 100% sure the USA ECU and UK loom are compatible?
Both the loom and the ECU are from USA
There are 3 earths coming from ECU, all of them blow fuse when conected. Sadly no further forward.
Have you stripped off all the outer covering incase the loom is damaged somewhere?
Well, you are further forward, ok, so the 3 earths are definitely meant to be earths (unless all 3 of them are wrong - I take it they are black with
yellow tracer?)
So look at what is happening, when you give the ecu a feed it is obviously putting a feed onto one of the other cables coming from that single plug,
or it is putting a cable to earth that also has a feed on it (less likely, but possible). You need to strip all outer casing off the loom so you can
actually trace wires, as it's only a single plug, that should give you probably 16 or so wires to trace, check that plug against the wiring
diagram, matching the colours up & following wires thro', there either has to be damage within the loom or there's a wire going where it
shouldn't
It sounds like a ball ache, but given the time & grief you've already invested is relatively minor by comparison
I’m sure you have checked this, but, are you using the correct ampage fuse? Sometimes it’s the simplest stuff that’s overlooked?!