Folks, what sort of engine temps are you seeing with your BECs?

Mines got a R1 5VY engine running with Evans waterless coolant so not too sure if it runs hotter or not. But with the R1 dash it showed 110 c. Is that too hot? The warning light didnt come on and it drove ok.

Cheers

My 5vy runs at 75-85 under normal driving. 85-90 on track or on road in hot/ hard conditions. Temp does spike pretty quickly from that when stationary or in slow traffic but the (ECU controlled) fan cuts in at 105 and drops it to 85ish before cutting off.

Being a Fury I've got the slightly larger 1.3 Polo rad' but that won't fit most 7s. I've also got a manual fan switch that I tend to use as soon as I hit traffic as once above 95 it's easier to stall.

If your getting 110 without the fan bringing it down, I'd say you have an issue.
Fan on ECU or other control?
Pusher/puller fan ?
Fan fitted very close to rad?
What rad?
Is rad baffled between it and nose?
What mesh is in the grill?

Going by what I've read the waterless coolant does run quite a bit higher than normal as its heat capacity is less than normal coolants however this is not an issue since it boils at a much higher temperature.

Did you understand what you were putting in at the time?

The only other question I’d ask is are you using the Yam Water-Oil cooler? One option would be to remove the ‘loading’ on the water cooling system by plumbing a separate air-oil cooler.

Thanks for the replies chaps. I will answer the questions.

The fan is hard wired and comes on as soon as ignition is on
Puller fan mounted on rear of rads (1 in either side pod.....think formula ford car)
The fan is mounted directly to the rad
There are sealant strips/foam around the rads i presume to prevent air from passing unless via the rad
The mesh is expanded mesh......ive ordered some woven mesh so will replace it


Regarding the waterless coolant...... the car had it when i bought it. Ive replaced some silicone hoses and used the same brand of coolant just as it runs quiet a lot less pressure and didnt want to mess with it too much. In fairness, even with it at 110 c i could removed the expansion bottle cap and there was almost no pressure there.

Yam water/oil cooler....... ive no idea. It looks pretty standard so presume its whatever the bike was born with

Ive been out there having a look and had the car running and theres possibly a small coolant leak as the exhaust headers were letting off steam and the coolant pipes run right next to them......would that cause a rise in temperature? I will need to wait for it to cool down and check the coolant level to see if its dropped.

Plan of attack is

Check connections for a leak
Remove the expanding mesh and see if that makes a difference
Pray for snow

Cheers

N1

I run the ZZR1400 engine & once at IVA (stationary, no airflow, speedo check followed by noise check followed by a retry on the emissions) - I once saw 128 degrees with ordinary coolant!!! At that point it was spraying coolant from a T piece supplied by CBS which has seals within it which obviously just weren't up to that sort of pressure! Important point was it passed!

My point being that I don't think I'd worry too much at 110 deg - I've chatted with Rage b4 about their ZZR1400 buggies & because they are used at high power, but relatively low speed they are hard to cool - Anthony told me they regularly see 115 to 120 without any leaks or adverse effects

I know very little about waterless coolant, but as it has a higher boiling point I know it's supposed to avoid hotspots etc - I don't know if it's heat transfer capability is any better than normal water/anti freeze mix, if it is then 110 deg should be absolutely fine unless the Yam engine is a lot more susceptible to heat issues than the Kwak, but I think most heat issues get caused by the coolant boiling & therefore either escaping &/or creating hotspots/general lack of cooling as steam doesn't do the same job water does!

Cheers buddy. Thanks for the reply.

I will still attack it with the previous plan and hope it sorts itself out

FYI....ive got a similar-ish car to the Furore albeit a single seater

IIRC the fan on a R1 when in the bike kicks in at around 110,so you will be fine if that was your peak temp.

Personally I would get EWC out as soon as possible.

It's more viscous than water so loads up the water pump, has a lower coefficient for transferring heat so it runs hotter.

Heat steals power, internal combustion engines make most power at 70-80 degrees, the EWC will not pressurise anything even at +200 degrees, it's basically pure antifreeze.

If it was so good manufacturers would fill for life... Put it back to factory a and run it cooler.

Mine actually runs hotter if i (accidentally) leave the fan running via the manual switch after the temp has come down and I'm moving again.

Is the temp reading on the yam dash or an aftermarket gauge. Could be it's not accurate. Try and get an IR thermometer and check. 110 is a lot higher than normal especially if the fan is on.

The MSDS for waterless coolant shows it 85% Ethylene Glocol or the more poisonous antifreeze.

I use this industrially and has 2 Major differences over water.

It is much more viscous to pump. The same pump will give a much lower flow rate in litres/minute.
It has a lower heat capacity than water. If water was flowing into the engine and saw a 15 degree rise, glocol would rise more than 20 degrees.

If used with no added water at 100% the above issues become worse.

The above is all fine if you plan to use this from the start at engine design as coolant passages will be bigger. Connections pipes bigger and a much bigger coolant pump, but I’d go back to whatever the factory setup was. The engine was probably not designed to operate so hot. It might be fine but you’re into the unknown.


Engines when burn fuel split the energy roughly 3 ways.
1/3 useful power
1/3 coolant heat
1/3 exhaust heat.

If you have a 150 kW (200bhp) engine output you need to get rid of 150 kW of heat. That is a lot of heat. A car rad with a similar engine power should be fine but may be difficult to fit, hot hatch stuff tends to be small and the right power rating.

On the coolant fan, check the curved side of the blades is at the front of the car.

Best of luck

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
Personally I would get EWC out as soon as possible.

It's more viscous than water so loads up the water pump, has a lower coefficient for transferring heat so it runs hotter.

Heat steals power, internal combustion engines make most power at 70-80 degrees, the EWC will not pressurise anything even at +200 degrees, it's basically pure antifreeze.

If it was so good manufacturers would fill for life... Put it back to factory a and run it cooler.

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Cheers for the replies chaps.

Its got the R1 dash

From memory, the car doesnt usually run that hot? I dont recall seeing it over 90.

The only thing ive done recently is new waterless coolant and an oil change. Im going to check the system is bled fully but im pretty sure it is.

[Edited on 2/6/18 by number-1]

Well, after bleeding everything again it stilll runs hot. I drained the EWC, flushing the system and replacing with normal antifreeze/water mixture and still it runs hot.

I noticed the expansion tank didnt have any flow coming in so possibly the thermostat is fooked or the water pump. Where the headers were letting off a little steam yesterday is directly below the thermostat so shall start there!!!

Kit cars are fun arent they!!!!!!

#

Well....it wasnt the thermostat!! After taking the seat and firewall out i found it had been deleted already!

Looked at the flow coming back in at the top of the expansion tank and there was none at all even with revs, so decided it could be the water pump. Managed to get the water/oil pump out tonight and its totally knackered so a new one is going in tomorrow.

Im curious now as to if the previous owner changed to the waterless coolant as the water pump wasnt working properly and it was running hot?!?!

Hey ho....as long as it works then im one very happy man!

Cheers for the input chaps.