I'm currently trying to work out if my engine conversion is possible

I have a suzuki cappuccino and a honda super blackbird engine in my garage at the moment. Today I tried to see if it would fit into the engine bay.... well it doesn't

The more worrying thing in my mind at the moment is that the prop adaptor on my engine is so far over to the driver side in relation to the original prop shaft which is central in the tunnel

I intend to use a reverse box however does this look like it won't be possible?

Engines sump is parallel with the floor

[Edited on 21/7/18 by Blister]



[Edited on 21/7/18 by Blister]

If I cut the bulkhead I can get the engine alot lower and further back however it will make the prop adaptor even move over to drivers side

[Edited on 21/7/18 by Blister]

Would it be feasible to turn the engine at an angle, so the prop back to the reverse box runs at an angle thro' the tunnel, I believe U/J's can cope with angles of around 20/25 degrees? Maybe even put the reverse box at a slight angle too reducing the angle on the front half of the prop & introducing a small angle on the rear half?

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Originally posted by russbost
Would it be feasible to turn the engine at an angle, so the prop back to the reverse box runs at an angle thro' the tunnel, I believe U/J's can cope with angles of around 20/25 degrees? Maybe even put the reverse box at a slight angle too reducing the angle on the front half of the prop & introducing a small angle on the rear half?

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Managed to get the engine in alot lower and further back there isn't much room to get the engine over or twist it really due to steering rack in the way

https://ibb.co/mCYQ8d

[Edited on 23/7/18 by Blister]

[Edited on 23/7/18 by Blister]

I had one fitted by mac1 at 25 degrees and it knocked badly at low speed. It was a modified Sierra prop. So I got one remade.
The guys who made my prop shaft said no more than 15 percent at each joint. I turned my blade engine slightly toward the tunnel and run 13 degrees and was fine.

quote:

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Originally posted by jossey
I had one fitted by mac1 at 25 degrees and it knocked badly at low speed. It was a modified Sierra prop. So I got one remade.
The guys who made my prop shaft said no more than 15 percent at each joint. I turned my blade engine slightly toward the tunnel and run 13 degrees and was fine.

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I think you will need to cut the chassis out and remake it once the engine and prop are mounted

I run a 2 piece drive shaft with a centre CV joint (Holden commodore - opel?)
The UJ's run almost straight with all the angles taken up by the CV joint.
I was told by the engineer who made my shaft that the holden CV can take 300+bhp at all sorts of angles

The Blackbird clutch slave cylinder gets in the way of the drive shaft - I made an adaptor plate so that I could rotate the slave to get the fluid connectors/bleed nipple out of the way - had to make the pushrod a bit longer as well.
I am using a cable clutch (hand operated) but that then operates an hydraulic master cylinder to work with the honda slave.

David

As mentioned cut the chassis rail out once in place. I made a removable BEC mount for mine which unbolted and lifted out. Also had to remove part of the lower straight rail and move slightly.

Can you show us pics. Or a drawing of it from plan view.

There will be a way I'm sure of it.

My tiger build took 4 mocked up options before I got it right.

Bulkhead has now been cut and engine is much further back and lower.

Subframe will need notching slightly I believe or slightly raise the engine up

https://pasteboard.co/HEXj7tS.jpg
https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/HEXj7tS.jpg

Space for headers
https://imgur.com/a/Ks5mX03
https://ibb.co/bU3rxK

Sump is a shallow baffled sump which is flat however it isn't perfectmy flat with the ground is this a problem?

https://ibb.co/bsFRWe

[Edited on 21/9/18 by Blister]