I have a R1 5VY engine which came out of a running BEC which I've fitted into my car.
The loom that came with it when I bought it was cut to bits and hacked, so I've bought a new loom R1 bike loom and installed this into my car.
isolated the side stand
the tip over sensor has been silicone up and is also mounted UP
Exhaust servo is installed.
I've got a nice spark - fitted new plugs too
I've got fuel.
It's got a new battery.
I'm using the standard dash and there are no warning lights or engine management light.
I've cleared any previous eprom errors and this is showing zero errors.
When I comes to trying to start it, it's just popping and banging and won't fire into life.
It's as if the timing is out - but it came from a running BEC.
It's just like when you connect the plug leads on the wrong cylinder
My initial thought was i'd got the injectors and plugs round the wrong firing order sequence.
I've checked cylinder 1 (the left most cylinder when you're sitting on the bike) is wired correctly
I've checked injector 1 is wired correctly
(i've checked this for cylinders and injectors 2,3,4 too) as shown in the Haynes Manual.
I've checked the cam sensor this seems fine at 4.89 v
I've checked the crank sensor on AC and this is generating current.
I've even tried another standard wiring harness and sub harness for the injectors (thinking the cam sensor wiring was a problem).
The only thing I haven't checked is the timing markers (but it was running before I installed it into my car and haven't touched
anything)
Can anyone think of any ideas I can try to make this work? Nothing left field would be discarded...
I'm getting close to my wits end now and about to throw in the towel.
TIA
Come on Adi, you normally pop up around now to help!
The fault codes are pretty reliable if the have a faulty sensor. You're right about the firing order. Definitely got spark on all 4 plugs? They pop and bang if just one isn't firing. You can test fire plugs and injectors individually through the ECU (sorry don't remember the exact procedure but you need the kill switch i think). Fuel line connected the right way around with return from the regulator end? Motor well earthed? Tip switch did glue in the right position?
Stand up and take a bow that man !
Sorted !
Using the coil diagnostics on the dashboard I managed to locate the #1, #2, #3 and #4 trigger wires (it's a switched earth) by using a volt meter
connecting the red to a live and the black of the DVM to the trigger wire on each coil. I worked out that I'd got the coils configured
#4,#3,#2,#1 instead of #1,#2,#3,#4 (when viewed sitting on the bike)
swap them round and boom... started first time.
But I'm confused. If you look in the manual, the #1 cylinder has a coil lead trigger wire of orange and an injector trigger wire coloured red /
black.
Yet, mine works with #4 coil (grey/green) and #1 injector (red/black) in the same cylinder.
I'm not completely convinced, so I'm going to do more digging.
When you're sitting on the bike, the cylinders are #1, #2, #3, #4 from left to right.... correct ?
Yes, cylinders are numbered 1-4 left to right from position sitting on bike (with throttles towards you)
I think I've seen mention before of a wiring diagram being wrong as you describe. From memory the injector sub loom plug is at the #1 end and the
ignition one is at the #4 end if that helps with which go where.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Yes, cylinders are numbered 1-4 left to right from position sitting on bike (with throttles towards you)
I think I've seen mention before of a wiring diagram being wrong as you describe. From memory the injector sub loom plug is at the #1 end and the ignition one is at the #4 end if that helps with which go where.