I was at Pembrey for a trackday on Saturday. Had the most annoying failure thanks to a M6 bolt winding its way out...
Using a random image from Google, the very rusty pipe in the centre is secured in place by the equally rusty cap head bolt to the bottom-right of it
(mine are in much better condition by the way.)
https://images.app.goo.gl/Ypk9nZcvu8T5UqWa9
Anyway, for those who don‘t know this pipe transports coolant from the integrated oil/water pump which is housed in the oil sump. A water-tight seal
is assured thanks to a couple of o-rings. What has happened here is that the bolt has backed-itself out, the pipe has followed and the coolant has
therefore been pumped directly into the sump/motor.
In hindsight, the first signal was clutch-slip but it ran for something like 10 minutes like this before it all escaped via the catch tank and I
really knew I had a problem when my feet slipped off the pedals. It still got me back to the pits.
I’ve removed the sump and water-pipe drain plugs - not much in the cooling system and lots of water in the sump.
I’m resigned to the fact that the engine MUST be toast but since it was running, I can’t help wondering if I should clean it up and refill with cheapo
oil and see what happens on attempted re-start. It feels like it might get some YouTube hits (if I were so-inclined.).
Shall I stop dicking-around, pull the motor out, save the cases for a later engine build and start saving my pennies for another (3rd now) motor?
I would fill it up with some fresh oil, turn engine over to circulate oil and check for any tightness, possibly a compression test too and start it up, it will become apparent if there is any serious trouble. What have you got to lose apart from the cost of a gallon of oil?
As above
Fresh oil and try it, What's to lose, you might be lucky
Cheap oil, suck it and see. Guess we'll find out how good the expensive oil is.
A few years ago when my head gasket went, the oil came out looking like chocolate milk. When the engine was stripped and no bearing or bore damage
found so you could be lucky.
[Edited on 7/9/20 by adithorp]
Here’s what was in the sump:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/145619367@N05/shares/zKVfK2
10 minutes of high revving track time?
Worth a try with some cheapo oil,but I fear the crank bearings wont last long,that's if it's not knocking badly on start up.
Not a bike engine but a skyline 6cylinder the oil cooler pipe come of and blow oil every where the engine seized we repaired the pipe and replaced
the oil
We kept towing the car and it started the car was used for two more years before getting the engine rebuilt
So there is always a chance
Jacko
My moneys on oil and go, no damage
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
My moneys on oil and go, no damage
He's the one who bet on the Grand Prix result at 169000:1!
R1 second only in bulletproof ness to the ‘blade. (Hoping I’ve not put the mockers on mine now)
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
R1 second only in bulletproof ness to the ‘blade. (Hoping I’ve not put the mockers on mine now)
Sounds ok to me... With caveat that I do suffer a bit with tinnitus
Sounds like a whining cat to me, but i am not keen on Becs
I do believe you have saved the engine though, and that must be a relief
steve
I think you may well have got lucky there
Off you go now to buy a lottery ticket before your luck runs out
what does the oil look like now?
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
what does the oil look like now?
Another query: could the moisture in the oil line to the pressure gauge be causing the sensor to read a false positive? It’s reading 6psi with the engine off!?
Fingers crossed for you!
But I wouldn't count your chickens until you've used it in anger at full temp........
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Fingers crossed for you!
But I wouldn't count your chickens until you've used it in anger at full temp........
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
I’m getting very weird oil pressure readings. 15psi engine off rising to 122psi on cold idle.
Will drop the oil and pull the oil pan and clutch tomorrow and see what there is to see.
I'd change the sender first. They can be temperamental so don't assume the worst.
I briefly ran the car again and was occasionally seeing N/C for oil pressure on the dash which does suggest a sender issue.
Also, the oil pressure warning light which runs off another part of the sender unit seems to be behaving normally.
[Edited on 26/9/20 by TimC]