unable to fit standard air box to rry blade engine, can anyone give me an idea of what filter to use and any suppliers .

Bought mine direct from pipercross, its a universal back plate which you drill to suit your carbs and a foam filter. you'll need a dynojet kit though and possibly a session on the dyno to set it up. much cheaper if you can adapt the standard air box.

Al.




]Originally posted by tim windmill
unable to fit standard air box to rry blade engine, can anyone give me an idea of what filter to use and any suppliers .

can you get the air box on upside down, by that i mean inlet/filter down towards gearbox rather than up over top of cam cover ?

because the rry is fuel injected, its a completely different airbox from the carbed one,
speak to SCOTLAD on here...I think he has just modded one...

If you go for a foam filter you will need to fit the sensor from the airbox into the new filters backplate

cheers
Colin

I used a ITG filter from merlin motorsport,01249 782101,its a jc 40 sausage filter,with a jc 40 blank base plate which I had to drill to fit,and as colin says fit in the sensors from your air box, £65 + £19+vat and post.
cheers Paul

[Edited on 19/05/04 by PAUL FISHER]

picture of it fitted
Rescued attachment DCP_0545.JPG

cheers guys thanks for all your replies

Alternatively, MNR do a Pipercross filter and base plate for £78.

Here's mine


Image deleted by owner

I suppose I could have found a larger picture. I can just about make out the filter

[Edited on 28/2/05 by Mad Dave]

How do inection engines run on foam filters? Is there any power to be gained? Im thinking of ditching my unique airbox poking through the bonnet for a foam filter.

Carnut

If you get the airbox right then it should be better than a foam filter assuming you can get nice cool air into it, as an open filter pulls in all the hot air around the engine. A good airbox can also smooth the airflow into the inlets and even give slight "pulse tuning" to effectively pulse the air down the carb / TBs but you really need a proper CFD program to simulate this and optimise the design. Generally a bad airbox will be worse than a sausage filter, but potentially an airbox could be better.
The third advantage is that an airbox drastically reduces the driveby noise so is good for trackdays. With the Injected R1 Im going to be running, I am going to fab up a custom airbox and get the Power Commander set up to suit, then try it with an open sausage filter and re-map it - if I gain a bit of power I'll use the airbox and that map for quiet trackdays, and the open filter for others, but if I dont see an advantage I'll probably just keep the airbox on all the time.

Have a look at this thread on the American DRS Racer forum, it goes into quite a bit of detail on airboxes on BECs.

Chris

Looks like ill be playing with fluent a bit then.

Yours or the company's?

I did some at uni but im bu**ered if I can remember any of it! I tried to persuade a mate of mine who did his dissertation on modelling in CFD to do me a "simple" design, but even though he's currently at home for several months with his broken thigh in a cage, he still said he wasnt that bored just yet!

Both Uni and me have a copy. It would take ages to do an airbox design properly. Even then wouldnt guarentee it would be right.

I think the best you can do is to take the volume of either a stock box if you know its reasonable, or an aftermarket one you know gives good results, then play with the shape to get it under the bonnet etc without restricting the area around the trumpets too much. I think I'll just use the underside of the stock filter housing then make up a new top the same volume but less bulbous. Im not sure about the 'bird but from what Ive read the R1 airbox is pretty good as standard, although Im not sure if its optimal for the engine per se, or just optimal for the engine running in a bike, ie if you arent constrained by the packaging restrictions on the bike, it could be improved further with more volume etc.

[Edited on 28/2/05 by ChrisGamlin]

I stayed with my airbox and didn't wanted to mod it (i use a V4 "VFR800" its a high beast soow i needed to lower it in the chasis. now i only have 150mm of room i guess....

i also think that a open filter isn't that good in my case even worse because in my airbox there is a extra air inlet valve..

if it would stay open it wil ruin my mixture..
etc..

i would stay with the standard airbox.
if you don't you are going the dynojet kit route deffenetly..!!

Bike engines are very "sensible" for chages in their standard mod. change a filter for a K&N one and you need to change mixture, change exhaust and you need to mod mixture.....

TKS

Thats the beauty of injection with a Power Commander, if you change the filter or go to an open saugage filter etc, just upload the map to suit and off you go

Ive got a power commander too. I will need to change the map anyway as the new engines going to be a big bore and thought I should sort the airbox/filter at the same time to save on mapping.

Power commander also worked a treat for emissions at sva