How can i get rid of noise gear change on my bec its doing my nut in !!
It only seems to happen in 1st 2nd & 3rd


Cheers Drew

my r1 engine did the same ,thats why i went for the bailey morris prop this time,im sure jfos had one of these as well ,his still clunked but no way near as bad as mine

Mine clunks too but i find its only at low rpm. Its vertually silent when im giving it some hammer.

At this very minute im trying to fit a cosworth rear prop section with a built in cush.

my mk R1 has a bailey morris prop with resilient tube on the back part of the prop and i only get a small clunk going into first .

So how much does a bailey morris prop cost ? And where would i get one ?

Cheers Drew

think mine cost around £300 ,not sure if anyone does it cheaper
baileymorris i think shed's was exactly the same dimensions as mine ,same length same centre bearing position same everythink,,maybe he might still have the measurments

I wouldn't drive the car until you've done the prop, you'll more than likely do some serious damage (clutch basket). I called Bailey-Morris, very helpful, circa 300 for a prop - persuaded them that as mine is as new they will mod it for something over 100 quid

If it's any use, most bikes boxes clunk when going into gear (from neutral).

ATB

Simon

Agree Simon, but most don't clunk going up the gears! All we're after is a substitute for the cush drive all bikes have (and cars if you look at the annular springs). If you go up the gears, or down, apart from a lull or blip on the throttle there is nothing to help the engine and road speeds match, and absorb the resultant difference.

Out of interest, do you have a reverse gearbox? Several people I know who have ditched their reverse boxes and put in a normal 2 piece prop have noticed a lot of impovement in the smoothness of the drivetrain.
A contributing factor could also be the changing gear technique, if you change really slowly and do it like you would with a normal gearbox (ie lift off, clutch in, pull across the gate, clutch up, accelerate) then they are quite clunky and feel awkward, but the more you rush them with only a slight lift and quick stab of the clutch (or none at all), the smoother the changes seem to get.

Ive run mine without a cush or TRT for 3 years and never had any gearbox problems, Ive gone through 2 engines for unrelated reasons but whenever ive stripped them down the gearboxes have all been in really good condition, as have the clutch baskets etc. I guess some engines are more clonky than others though, but the blade was never a problem without one.

It is a dog engagement type gear box , by it's very nature it clunks! there are no syncro's to speed up shafts and match gear speeds it is a brutal metal gear hitting another metal gear that engages the drive. The clunk is not damageing anything as it is only momentarely slowing down the drag of the clutch.Also it is louder in 1st and 2nd cos there is a gap between these gears to give you a neutral the rest are close together to give a seamless shift.
If you want the box to be silent then i'm afraid you need a helical cut synchro box only found on car engines.

yes your right about the gearbox's but blades and zx9's dont clunk half as bad as the R1.
you could try getting a doughnut for the prop instead of buying a bailey morris prop but im sure the doughnuts are very expensive as well,,both of these will help but wont get rid of the clunk alltogether

Chris i dont have a reverse box.
But at kames yestarday i hardly noticed it

I will try changing as you described and see what happens .

Cheers for all the advice

Drew