I know that most of the kit car manufacturers will supply prop flanges but has anyone got any pics of the ones from the likes of MNR, ST, MK etc?

I think Im going to need to get a new prop flange because my current blade one has been heat treated making it almost impossible to machine down to fit the R1 using normal lathe tools etc. I could get it ground down but that will probably cost more than buying a new one and flogging my old one!

Also does anyone know which ones have threaded bolt holes for the prop bolts, and which ones have untapped holes which use locking nuts on the back?

Chris

My zx9 one from MNR has tapped holes. There isn't room for a nut on the back as the holes are too near the sides of the centre boss.

Chris,

look at Ebay item 4554504164

(Sorry, don't know how to do links!)

I bought one of these for my 'blade engine but he does them for R1's etc. as well.
Came quickly and seems a nice bit of kit.

Andy.

i bet its that guy called chris... he has a link to a website selling them for £55.

you can undo the threatment

if you heat up your part...and then let it cooling down by normal ambient temperature....(the slower the better)

in that way the carbon parts will restore to their original position...

and then you can use the lathe.easyly..

Tks

Cheers all
I guess its this website you're talking about for £55?
They look good quality but his are threaded too, and ideally Im after one that isnt threaded. Being threaded makes it a right pain in the ar$e to do the bolts up as they interfere with the prop UJ knuckles when first going in, and makes taking the prop on/off take about 3 x longer than it could if it had plain holes and you could do a nut up on the back.

Cheers for the suggestion TKS, wouldnt it then need to be hardened again after lathing though, how would I do this, heat up and quench?

mine from mnr (blade) are bolts with lock nuts on the rear

Ah OK, so MNR might be an option then. I did call them on Saturday but someone had the last one off the shelf that morning (anyone here guilty?!! ). I didnt ask if it was threaded but will give them a call tomorrow and see.

exactly...

and in water may go to fast....( i have seen them doing it..)

but you could also use old motor oil etc..

put it red hot and then in the oil....

like you do on sundays with the egs..(look a like)

i'm sure that there are some web sites
wich will give you a better step by step guide...


however to take down my original bike sprocket they did it over here that way..

(the tooth are where hardened)...
they heated it up quite hot..and then just turned of the machine and waited 1 day etc..

my sprocket isn't heated is it nececary??
when you heat it it will be less flexier...

Tks

[Edited on 5/6/05 by tks]

Cheers Chris, I could probably get mine modded locally either by grinding or by doing what TKS suggested by re-heat treating it, but its probably going to cost more than buying a new one (£55-60) then selling my old one, and i'd still end up with a flange that had was threaded which I couldnt change because there isnt enough room to put nuts on the back of mine, which is I suspect the same with some of the other threaded ones.

I'll give MK and MNR a call tomorrow and see how we go.

cheers

Chris

Get some allen head cap screws just long enough to go through both with a washer under the head, they go in a lot easier and don't foul the u.j.

[Edited on 5/6/05 by Peteff]

Chris - I'd be interested in your old one if that makes any difference ;-)

Pat...

The one in my factory built Stuart Taylor Blade hasn't got threads, it has bolts + nuts. It's fastened to the engine via the big bolt I hold in the pic.

Cheers,

Alex




[Edited on 6/6/05 by Alez]

Cheers Alex, it looks like they all chop and change supplier then because my ST one is threaded!

Regarding the cap head bolts Pete, Ive tried both those and normal hex, and both interfere with the UJ when first going into the hole. The only way to stop this happening would be to shorten down the bolts but then they wouldnt pass all the way through the flange which Im not keen on doing. Its my prop thats the issue, I think maybe its got larger than normal UJ knuckles or something. Also on one bolt, where they put the grease nipple is right in the way too, making it even more difficult for that one.

Pat - yep I just want to make sure i can get another one first, but first dibs is yours.

cheers

Chris

When fixing the threaded-type adapters, is it a case of a liberal helping of studlock and a spring washer? Also, what torque should be used for the M8 bolts that are used?

Ta.

Yep, thats it basically. Not sure on the torque, about as tight as you can get em with a 3/8th ratchet seems to do the trick tho

I found they will all go easier in one certain position as the angle widens as you turn the prop then closes on the opposite side. The allen key was just easier to get past the joint knuckles.

Yep, they will all go with a bit of juggling with the prop into the right position, but its this that takes the time / wears down the patience so would rather just use nuts n bolts making it a lot quicker, which will mean I'll be more enthusiastic to take it off occasionally to check the centre bolt is still tight!

quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisGamlinwhich will mean I'll be more enthusiastic to take it off occasionally to check the centre bolt is still tight!

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