Apart from the more obvious bits that i need to purchase along with the engine, what other bit can i salvage from the bike?

I was thinking ....

1. Dasboard ... with it's sub-loom to connect with the main engine loom, and ofcourse a speedo healer.

2. Fuel Pump ... Looks a like a smart compact unit. Noticed it has fuel level sender incorporated too. This will hook-up directly to the dash via the sub-loom.

comments ... ??? anymore ideas??

including the obvious stuff i think youv covered it

. Don't bother with the fuel pump. The bike's pump is not designed to push gas (with pressure) from a distance.
. Don't be too upset if the bike speedo doesn't work. (If you are buying a salvage bike, most often it is that part of the bike that gets smashed in collisions). ... Consider a digidash or other instrument cluster.
. The bike radiator isn't suitable for a car but save the (temp sensor) fan relay, the overflow bottle and all the rad hose you can find from it.
. You can keep the oil cooler, cannibalize the sending and return hoses (it's not under pressure so there's no danger) turn it round and mount it forward with your (new) aluminum rad.
. You should save every bit of bike loom that you can find and add whatever car (electric) bits you may need to it.
. You should salvage the bike (handle bar) controls. (You can make a very attractive instrument cluster and thus avoid even more additional wiring).
. Although you can keep the air box, you will find that it will make an absolutely hideous hole in the bonnet of your 7. You can junk the box and use a techlusion or powercomander to compensate for the box stuff.
. The oil pan on bikes are designed to always draw from a (sump) well. You will either have to go to a dry sump (expensive) or buy a drag bike swivel pick up (with a new pan).
Rescued attachment bike instrument tree.JPG

Be aware the 'busa dry-sump is >$2000. That alone has pushed me to consider the R1 instead, which doesn't need one.

A less expensive alternative to dry sump is the "drag bike" oil pan. ... example http://www.hayabusazone.com/oilpan.html
The cost is about $440.00 US and it works gr8!
Rescued attachment oilpan2.jpg

QUote"You can keep the oil cooler, cannibalize the sending and return hoses (it's not under pressure so there's no danger) turn it round and mount it forward with your (new) aluminum rad"
Get real these hose are under fulle engine oil pressure!!
Quote "The bike radiator isn't suitable for a car but save the (temp sensor) fan relay, the overflow bottle and all the rad hose you can find from it. "
I use the bike rad but with a larger/more powerful electric fan - works fine.

Although the absolutely hideous hole in the bonnet of your 7 does look pants (if not covered by a bulge), using the original airbox is better.

You could get the bike switches if only to help wire up some proper switches, I think they look alot better and well worth the time and effort to sort out.
Rescued attachment switches.jpg

That tiny dash unit is really sweet. Who makes it, or is it the stock bike cluster (I wouldn't know, having hever looked at new bikes...)

[Edited on 4/21/06 by kb58]

its the stock r1 cluster by the look of it.

Anyone had any problems with exhaust emissions for SVA ?, having trouble getting a Westfield through. Sorry to highjack thread

it took me 3 attempts to get through the sva becouse of the dam emissions and my m8 with his westy struggled as well.is your friend using a power commander.

i have used the standard fuel pump with no problems at all,it is the fuel pump with the single fuel line that fits in the tank