Hello, I'am about to order my kit and was pretty sure I was going for a Zetec CEC. But now i've realised the true price of getting a decent
CEC engine setup its set me thinking....
If I bought a 'engine kit' from Malc what else would I need to purchase for it to complete my build?
I understand I'll need a propshaft.
Will the loom/clocks been fine as they are?
What else will I get in the 'kit'
Thanks.
You'll get the full bike loom, fuel pump, engine, ECU etc.
The only thing I didn't get was the clocks and switches.
All you'll need to do is connect the switches and plug in some bike clocks (from the correct year/model), then extend the bike loom out to fit
the car better (Malc recomended to me putting the ECU and other bubbins into a box under the dash and just running wires around the rest of the car)
you will need an exhaust, a speedohealer or similar to make the speedo read right, probably an aftermarket airfilter, and then you will have to address the oil surge issues, but this varies according to engine. Also a sprocket adapter. Clocks can be used but some prefer not to.
I have bought a veypor V2 which is everything you need in the way of speedo, gear indicator, shift light, fuel computer (no tank sender needed),
circuit timer, horsepower meter, drag strip speed, aerodynamic coefficient calculator.
Clicky
I only paid £150 on ebay for an unused one, but they cost £240, compared to other digital dashes for cars of £800 +.
Plus mine is now fitted to my steering wheel.
veypor v2 steering
You will also need certain things to get you through emmissions, depending on wether the engine is carb or injection.
A catalytic converter if the engine is newer than 1995.
I have bought an injected 05 R1 from Malc at yorkshire engines (bloody good bloke), a barnet uprated clutch and a power commander.
The clutch can be uprated by doubling up the spring on a standard clutch but the barnet conversion offers 80% more clutch surface area. The power
commander alters the fuel and timing demands on the engine to make the engine pass emissions tests.
Best advantages of the engine are:
Better power to weight
Sequential gears (paddle shift option)
Exhaust sound is more F1 !!!!!!!!!!!
[Edited on 8/11/2006 by nitram38]
[Edited on 8/11/2006 by nitram38]
Kind of off topic:
Do Hyabussa engines need a dry sump, or do they work OK without? I know that this would be the preferred route, but some must be dry sumped????
Mark.
Try shopping around for the bike engine and try to get the bike clocks included in the deal. It'll save you at least a few hundred quid in
alternative instruments, unless of course you want all the bells & whistles of something like a Digidash.
Depending on what engine you go for (carb or FI), you may also need a Power Commander to be able to adjust the fuel/air ratio to suit your application
and prevent the engine running too lean/rich.
Phil
quote:
Originally posted by Tiger Super Six
Kind of off topic:
Do Hyabussa engines need a dry sump, or do they work OK without? I know that this would be the preferred route, but some must be dry sumped????
Mark.
Phil, so do only FI engines need a power commander and carb engines just need 'tuning' at the carb itself?
How about sump clearence? Is this the same issue on a bec as cec? My car would be primarily used on the road so this may be an issue.
Thanks for the advice so far.
I forgot that a baffle is needed for the R1.
The power commander is for Fuel injection.
quote:
Originally posted by Colnago_Man
Phil, so do only FI engines need a power commander and carb engines just need 'tuning' at the carb itself?
How about sump clearence? Is this the same issue on a bec as cec? My car would be primarily used on the road so this may be an issue.
Thanks for the advice so far.
Yep a lot of sumps can be shortened or at least modified with a side drain plug to gain you 10mm or so, but just for information the R1 isnt one that can be easily chopped because of the oddball pickup design coming down at an angle which is nigh on impossible to shorten unless you completely refabricate it.