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R1 4XV Clutch Case Breakage...
Winston Todge - 22/11/06 at 08:54 PM

Well after doing a few more bits and bobs on the car I decided to start the motor up again and let it properly warm up before a filter and oil change.

I noticed a small amount of oil seeping from the oil seal at the bottom of the clutch actuator arm on the nearside (left hand in the bike, front in the car) engine case.

I decided to pop the case off and have a proper look. I found that when the engine was in the motorcycle it must have been dropped on the clutch side as the oil seal around it and the surrounding ally had been crunched in creating a 'D' shaped seal.

So I sourced a replacement from Yamaha and promptly popped out the old seal from the casing. I noticed a couple of long cracks in the ally and began to push on them very slightly... With minimal force the side of the case cracked off...

Engine case breakage
Engine case breakage


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Engine case breakage 02
Engine case breakage 02


Anyone got any ideas? Aluweld? Two part epoxy? New engine casing??

I can insert the new oil seal and then epoxy around the side? Bit of a bodge but doable?

Any help'd be good,

Ta,

Chris.


chockymonster - 22/11/06 at 10:05 PM

I'd drop Malc an email, he'll let you know if it's ok to epoxy it.


smart51 - 22/11/06 at 10:17 PM

If it were mine, I'd glue it back on. It isn't structural, its only to give the oil seal something to seal to.

I certainly wouldn't pay that much for a cover. the going rate for covers is barely half that. keep an eye on eBay for a while. They'll come up.


nitram38 - 22/11/06 at 11:13 PM

I have had a lot of experience welding these sorts of things, so I will suggest something.
Find something that is steel and the same diameter as the oil seal. Remove the bearing (as it will fry) and get the hole welded up by using the steel to act as a mould for the weld. You may even be able to weld the broken piece back by welding around the outside.
Remove the piece of steel, put the bearing back in and run a bit of Blue hylomar around the oil seal before you put it back.
You are probably talking less than £10 for a decent welder to do.
This will be a better job than glueing and most of the time I have had to replace glued stuff with welds in the end.
If you lived nearer croydon, I could send you to just the man!
I used to work for him and I used to weld many a bike engine back together

[Edited on 22/11/2006 by nitram38]


tks - 23/11/06 at 07:42 AM

its a tipical one!

Do you guess and maybe lose or do you spent money..

i would try to weld it with a tig machine.
then looking at the result i would decide if i use it or search a new one.

Tks


Winston Todge - 23/11/06 at 05:45 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions all!

I've bought some rapid steel Araldite and some oil, water and high temp resistant silicone (probably all types to be honest!). I'm going to pop the old seal back in place with the non squished side facing the breakage.

Then I'm going to build up some Araldite on the outside of the seal and leave it to cure properly. The plan is to then pop the bent seal out and hopefully have a hole the correct size for the new seal.

Then I'm going to squidge a tiny amount of silicone on the outside of the seal and around the resin and then press it into place.

That's the plan! But if it all goes tits up Malc's looking to see if he's got any cases lying around. Which may be the better long term solution!

We shall see tonight...

Thanks again,

Chris.


G.Man - 24/11/06 at 09:21 AM

Dude, that should work fine...

Make sure you completely degrease it with carb/brake cleaner first...

And you may find it safer to fit new seal and then araldite...

Wont stress the repair that way


marc n - 24/11/06 at 09:24 AM

chris
i have a spare one i can swop with you its of my engine i use for engine mountings, so is never going to have oil etc in it, send me yours and i will swap you

cheers

marc