I've just finished dropping the engine out of a 'Busa motorcycle ready for my MNR build. I noticed when dropping it out that the drive sprocket cover incorporates the clutch release hydraulic cylinder. With the sprocket cover on it will prevent the propshaft being bolted to the sprocket adapter, with the cover off I will not be able to actuate the clutch. Does anyone know what the 'fix' for this is. Do I need to modify the sprocket cover (cut a hole in it) or is there another fix?

I can't help with the Busa mate, but I had to modify the ZZR sprocket cover to suit.


ZZR1100 Hydraulic Clutch

But that's not to say you have to cut the busa one!

No doubt there are enough people who have used a busa before that will give you specific advice soon!

Cheers

Mike

Hi sucksqueezebangblow, on my busa i did away with the housing and made a bracket up to take a clutch slave from a is200 lexus and mounted using old housing mount bolts and got a piece of silver steel to make a new actuater pin, hope this helps.

gerry

Depends on how much you want to spend....I bought the entire clutch actuator assy from Westfield as they fit to their megabusa - consists of the new bracket and actuator, plus a reservoir and aeroquip pipe. Wasn't cheap but is as good as gold

I know this is the 'locost' site, but sometimes it's worth paying a bit more for quality and piece of mind. I spent ages trying to work a different cheaper way around it but in the end bit the bullet....

Heres my solution:-



Had to modify it a little from standard but it was only £70 to start with!

I like that!!!!

Can take some more pics if you like? Got the sprocket adaptor fitted now and the engines mounted up. Its all a little tight on the clearances but it does fit....just!

quote:

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Originally posted by richard thomas
I know this is the 'locost' site, but sometimes it's worth paying a bit more for quality and piece of mind. I spent ages trying to work a different cheaper way around it but in the end bit the bullet....

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Looks like a similar problem to the GSXR1100WP. I guess this isn't unsurprising.

One solution is to chuck the old slave cylinder and mounting. Then use a smaller one on a plate that stands off (like the nice alloy one shown above, but just a thick alloy plate with holes, as that is shed-compatible).

I have a few photos, and some musings at;

http://www.matt_phoenix.talktalk.net/Clutch_and_gearchange.html

Which may be interesting to you,

Have fun,

Matt

i would just take of the cover
and grind until you are done with only the clutch salve cilinder.

it did for me! on my VFR 800

Tks

Wow, there are certainly plenty of options. A quick question for the guys that use the original (modified) cover and cylinder; how well did the cylinder match up (volume wise) with the master cylinder? Did you have to seek one out to match the volume of the original bike master cylinder to avoid the risk of blowing the slave piston out of it's cylinder? (or is that a stupid question?)

many times the rear brake master cylinder is used of the bike.

some installs uses just a cable to an master cylinder lever/brake lever.

In the busa hayness book you an see the original diameter piston on the master cilinders original thing.

You then search for something similiar.

Tks

Standard Westfield brackets aren't too strong (some have failed), I used both lower mounting points...