Pedals are in. The seats are not adjustable so the pedals are.
The seat subframe is mounted.
I have put spacers in place of the air ride shocks for accurate measuring and setting ride height.
All I need to do is put the shock mounts on and make up the suspension pushrods for it to be on it's wheels.
I also have a cunning plan to install two NACA ducts either side of each seat and run a pipe from each to the airbox. Hopefully it will give some sort of forced air to the engine.
Watch this space!


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Nice work

I suppose the only problem will be that people with short legs tend to have short arms... So unless the steering wheel is adjustable too the range of people able to drive it will still be relatively limited...

Nice work though- I like the lateral thinking!!

did you just tack weld bits of the chassis? couple of them pics show a bit a daylight round bracing ends that would expectto see welded up?

tis a beauty though! you Mig'ing it all?

[Edited on 17/11/07 by Dangle_kt]

If you look on the floor you will see a Punto adjustable top colomn which will be mounted on sliders. You will be able to adjust the height above your knees by using the release arm. If someone else buys it they can adjust the colomn with a spanner. Besides, I don't want it to be too adjustable or everyone will want a test drive!
The chassis is not fully welded yet as I want to make sure that everything fits and work together first. Now the pedals are in, the coloum is next. I have to ensure that the colomn does not foul on the pedals.
It will only take a day or two to weld the entire chassis.

[Edited on 17/11/2007 by nitram38]

That is starting to look very tidy indeed, I was wondering what the overall look would be but as it forms it gets more pleasing.

Something to be aware of when you start to fill the welds in, I was quite careful on my midi project using 1.5" 16swg tube, but have been surprised how much it deflects when welding up.

My frame will be hidden, so its of little concequence, but yours will I believe be open, so please do not repeat my mistake by generating to much heat, just keep building the spot welds up and run all over the frame. I dwelled to long on each joint.

When doing my BEC with 1" tube it was not an issue.... Its only when you put the mask down and step back a few feet you notice, that extra 1/2" makes all teh difference.

Regards Mark

I thought you'd have finished by now! What have you been pissing about at!

Seriously; it's looking good. Keep at it. Have you seen Rally Designs NACA ducts with the 72mm outlet moulded in?

adrian

quote:

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Originally posted by adithorp
I thought you'd have finished by now! What have you been pissing about at!

Seriously; it's looking good. Keep at it. Have you seen Rally Designs NACA ducts with the 72mm outlet moulded in?

adrian

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quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
That is starting to look very tidy indeed, I was wondering what the overall look would be but as it forms it gets more pleasing.

Something to be aware of when you start to fill the welds in, I was quite careful on my midi project using 1.5" 16swg tube, but have been surprised how much it deflects when welding up.

My frame will be hidden, so its of little concequence, but yours will I believe be open, so please do not repeat my mistake by generating to much heat, just keep building the spot welds up and run all over the frame. I dwelled to long on each joint.

When doing my BEC with 1" tube it was not an issue.... Its only when you put the mask down and step back a few feet you notice, that extra 1/2" makes all teh difference.

Regards Mark

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can you make me a pic of your reverse setup???

looks very nice!

would be interested to know wich starter that is. (it looks customised)

Tks

I bought the starter kit from lynxae.co.uk. It cost me £340 with the vat and delivery.
It is no ordinary starter as it has a gear reduction that delivers high torque at lower currents (designed for race cars with small batterys and ideal for becs).
It also came with a gear that replaces the nut that holds the engine output sprocket on.
This set up is only suitable for a chain drive set up as on a 7 the gear would be right where the prop adapter would go.

quote:

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Originally posted by nitram38
I also have a cunning plan to install two NACA ducts

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quote:

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Originally posted by nitram38
I bought the starter kit from lynxae.co.uk. It cost me £340 with the vat and delivery.
It is no ordinary starter as it has a gear reduction that delivers high torque at lower currents (designed for race cars with small batterys and ideal for becs).
It also came with a gear that replaces the nut that holds the engine output sprocket on.
This set up is only suitable for a chain drive set up as on a 7 the gear would be right where the prop adapter would go.

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Goto www.lynxae.co.uk and get the phone number for Jon.
He does various reverse kits that you might be able to adapt. He is a very good engineer so he will be able to advise you.

[Edited on 19/11/2007 by nitram38]