Hi im quite new to bike engines and ive heard a lot of people using different clutch springs. Could anyone tell me the advantages of fitting them, who sells them, would anyone recommend them for an R1(02-03) and how would you replace them on this engine?
thanks in advance
Adam

Most people recommend the OEM part. Some people go for Barnett springs. A lot of spare part places sell the EBC springs which have a reputation for being extra stiff the first couple of times you use them but quickly get effected by the heat and end up being soft and soggy....

The R1 uses a diaphragm spring.

I just used two springs (one over the top of the other) as opposed to the standard one.

I think the Barnett uses 6 or 8 seperate coil springs, but stand to be corrected.

HTH.

Lyn.

Just noticed about fitting...

...from memory (a bad one) drop the oil, take the casing off, nut off the end of the spring, double up on the spring, nut back on, casing back on (new gasket), fill with oil to sight glass - plus overfill of 250ml on mine.

That's an interesting idea using two springs in the R1.

Did you grease between them or do they work ok dry?

What's the difference between single spring and double in terms of bite, pedal feel, slippage etc?

Mine's (single spring) holding out ok ish but I suspect it's starting to slip now after 1000 or so miles. It'll never stand up to being supercharged so it needs an upgrade of some kind, this might be it.

Has anyone blown the R1 clutch basket up? I've seen billet basket kits but they're $$$. I'd rather turn a ring to press fit over the existing basket if they're weak.

jk

From people that have tried both, most seem to comment that the Barnett conversion gives a better pedal feel over a double diaphragm spring, but both have been used extensively with success in BECs so go with what your budget dictates (the Barnett kit is ~£100). There's also a third option of an uprated YEC (Yamaha Racing) diaphragm spring but Im not sure the cost or availability of those.

As to doing the clutch change, you don't need to drain the oil as the clutch cover is above the oil line, as you'll realise when you look at where the sight glass is

James - don't worry about the clutch baskets, its only the really early ('98 and possibly '99) engines that had the weak basket and a lot of those were replaced under recall I think. The later engines are all fine as far as Im aware, my 03 has a steel banded basket and I assume they introduced that mod to combat the issue on earlier engines too.

Or the fourth option is to leave it as standard. Mine has done 6500 miles of road and track use and has been absolutely fine!

Standard is just about holding up at the moment but I'm working to squeeze 200+ bhp (220 ish is the target) out of it with a supercharger so long term it's going to need attention.

Budget isn't especially tight but I like the simplicity of just doubling up on the OEM part, I think I'll give that a go then work from there if need be.

jk

So for £100 do you think the barnet clutch spring is a worthwhile upgrade before the engine goes in?

They are worth it IMO if you are going to do lots of trackdays or go race/sprinting. I had one fitted in both of my R1 cars and have not had any problems. This includes many race starts... If it saves you a set of frictions it has paid fro itself pretty quickly.

Keep to standard yamaha clutch plates, the only time I got slip was when I used Barnet kevlar ones..

Having said that, the doubling the diaphram spring does seem to do the trick so if you are on a budget go for that first.

Note that a good way to improve the longevity of your clutch is to remove the "anti judder" mechanism (a small friction plate and spring at the back of the clutch held in by a wire spring clip) and replace it with a standard clutch friction. Throw away the wire clip. A quick look at the haynes manual, you will see what I mean.

Regards

Paul