I'm trying to get together all of the parts I'll need for the electrical system on my Indy build. I'm using a 893 Fireblade engine and want to fit Oil pressure and Temp gauges.

Is the best way to fit them to use a sandwich plate and if so does anyone know where I can get one that'll fit?

Thanks
Mark.

[Edited on 17/2/08 by Mark G]

There is an oil pressure pick up point at what will be the front of the engine bottom rh side as you stand and look at it.

For oil temp i had a plate welded onto the sump then drilled n tapped it to suit.

The pressure pick up point would be for the warning light i guess, Could I safely 'T' at this point to add my sender for the gauge?

i would add an extension hose to the pick up point then a t piece to remote mount it, as the vibration can damage the senser for the pressure gauge if its bolted directly to the engine.

quote:

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Originally posted by bigrich
i would add an extension hose to the pick up point then a t piece to remote mount it, as the vibration can damage the senser for the pressure gauge if its bolted directly to the engine.

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Mark

If you want temperature and pressure, try using a SPA dual gauge here. These are very good and also include a programmable warning light (plus you can run an external one). This will save you having to tee off the oil gallery. The gauges also give you low battery warning as well.

Regards

Wyn

I have thought about this but there are 2 reasons why I wouldn't use it.

1, Very expensive and I'm on a budget
2, The temperature reading wouldn't be accurate if I remotely mount the sender as mentioned above.

I have remotely mounted my sender for the pressure sender and T'd in a light sender too.
Reason for this is because the first one broke within 100 miles when directly in block as has been mentioned
As for Temp I haven't done this so interested in what people have done - tapping into sump seems to be easiest option.

Edited to add a possible silly question but is there any reason why I couldn't get an adapter so that the temp sender went where my sump plug is to save any welding?

[Edited on 19/2/08 by Crazy Eddie]

Wyn, the SPA dual gauges still have two seperate sender units for pressure and temperature (my one from ~4 years ago did anyway) so you still need to find take-off points for both. They're a good gauge though and when you add up the cost of two seperate mechanical gauges and senders you won't spend a whole lot less than one of those, and you dont have the benefit of a min/max logging and a programmable warning light.

Talking of the pressure warning light, I wouldnt bother fitting the stock blade one back in. It activates at such a low pressure (around 8psi - less than idle pressure) that its pretty useless as a guide to oil surge when the engine is at higher RPM. It is certainly worth fitting the pressure sender on a length of aeroquip though as they are rather delicate and tend to not like high revving vibrations.

Chris

Chris - you're right. The SPA gauges have separate sensors for pressure and temperaure. The point I was making was that you don't need to tee for the oil pressure light and gauge.

You're right about the costs; by the time you buy separate sensors etc. the SPA stuff isn't too pricey and you get a loom etc..

This is what I did.

Wyn

Ah OK, yep see what you mean now

BTW Eddie, having a temp sender in the sump bolt might mean its not directly exposed so could under-read. I was amazed how much my coolant temp sender under-read when I temporarily rigged it up via an adapter union which meant the end of the sensor was about 5mm away from the direct flow of coolant, and with viscous oil that might be ev en worse unless the sump plug is shallow enough to expose the end. Also unless you've moved the sump plug to the side of the sump, id strongly recommend against it anyway, for obvious reasons!

Chris

Yeah I have one of Andy's sumps with sump plug on side





[Edited on 19/2/08 by Crazy Eddie]