I've been sorting my clutch cable tonight using mostly fireblade components and fabricated brackets.
Having almost finished the job i am attempting to get the "just so" position for the outer cable jam(motor end) in relation to the nose of the clevis into which the inner cable fits.

Here comes the question;

Can anyone tell me the distance that the face of the clevis travels toward the outer jam from clutch at rest to fully depressed?
Another way would be to ask how many degrees of rotation do i need in the vertical clutch pivot to achieve full clutch travel?
Please can anyone understand my rubbish attempt to frame this question?
I tried searching but could find nothing specific relating to this.

[Edited on 8/7/08 by simoto]

think i understand your question...

from the end of teh cable to the bracket that holds the outer you prob want at least say 50mm travel.. say allowing for some slack in teh cable etc... the actual clutch action woudl maybe take another 30mm.. leaving a bit in reserve.. i.e. not trying to pull the nipple into the outer cable at eth bracket - make sense ?

there are many variable though - is the clutch arm on eth engine std? throw at pedal end etc... but that shoudl probably do..

you can turn teh clutch arm by hand until its very tight.. then say a max of 30mm cable turn from there to clutch fully engaged

Thanks Mark, I mounted my outer cable stop bracket somewhat closer to the clutch arm than normal so as to get a kinder curve for the outer.
I was trying to work out if i had left enough room/travel for the inner cable for full clutch operation before the arm strikes the cable stop/bracket thingy.
The arm/cable is standard and looking from above it points to about 8 oclock. With my bracket as is i can pull it round to maybe five before contact with the outer stop. It travels about 30-40 mm total and ill prob need a bit of that for pretension.
Enough?

sounds like you should be fine..

so you are using a diffent cable bracket than what is std ? the angle shoud lhave been fine - you may have to bend things slightly to make sure they are both level though...

not totally necessary.. but i recently fited a light spring to the clutch arm to help ensure the clutch fully dis engages and takes the slack back out that way - simple spring and a couple of cable ties....

Mark.

Thanks again for reassurance Mark, think it will be ok in use. si