Riiight.... did my first track day yesterday.
Started off fine with no missed gears, as the day went on i missed one or two. (expected - but now on a down change not up??)
However as time went on it got worse and did it each time i went into lodge and then old hall too.
Every now and then it felt like the lever didnt quite spring back but more often than not it just didnt engage and you could hear the dogs clattering back into gear.

Is it me and my technique (lift, clutch in, push down, clutch out, turn...)
Or have i got a box problem? It was only rebuilt in December by AB.

The gear linkage is MK on rods, it has some movement on the bulkhead and i think the rod bends under load.

Can anyone recommend me a good paddle shift to replace this that i can use with sierra gear in place (any thoughts on pathfinders one).

Or something electronic? (Pathfinder, are you out there, do you still do yours, whats the wait??? )

I'd like to say money is no option if i can get this right, but it has to be sensible and relatively complete kit wise. Proshift seems a little pricey!

If you're not blipping the throttle on downchanges to match engine/roadspeed a motorcycle box will not like it. It will often refuse to change and the dogs will end up getting rounded off and the problem will only get worse until you need another rebuild.

When engine and roadspeed are correctly matched the next gear should drop in with absolutely no effort. If you feel that the selector mechanism is bending then I'm sure that this is your problem.

If you cannot master the heel and toe necessary to blip the throttle whilst braking have a look at one of these. John Charlton is the guy to speak to. His Trickshifter enables full throttle clutchless upshifts and actually blips the throttle for you to enable clutchless downshifts.

The trickshifter was actually developed for the motorcycle market but John tells me that he's actually selling more for BECs now as people discover the difficulties, and the consequences of mismatched engine/roadspeed, particularly on downshifts.

If you do call him, tell him I sent you and hello from Mike Capon.

Cheers,

Mike

I've posted this Hewland link before - it's how to change gear on their racing box, but the same rules apply for bike boxes.

Cheers guys, I've read the Hewland stuff before (Actually before i got the car so i got it right from the off)
Its downshift section pretty much describes exactly how i do it, Late with some nice heal toe in order to match the revs.
It feels more like the linkage bends a little not getting a full shift.

This makes sense " or if the linkage is not rigid and effective, dog wear will occur"

Why not build a new rod(s)? I doubt the MK direction changer is bending so if anything's bending it's the rods themselves. I built mine first time round using threaded bar, sleeved with steel tube and held together with female rose joints. Worked a treat and didn't bend.

The lever is starting to get play at the pivot in a left to right direction, the bulkhead end is moving up and down, the angle is stooooopidly bad on the rose joints etc... so just looking for a better solution.

Paddles with a good industrial push/pull cable?
Whilst i admire concieving of a system like the one fitted to my car, copying it would be niether diffucult or expensive.
I honestly doubt there is more than a £100 quids worth of parts, just a thought the result is stunning and the greater sensitivity in fingertips allied to having more concentration available(not having to remove hands from wheel) may lead to more cleanly excecuted shifts.
Personally im lazy and will be fitting a blipper as my main experience relates to racing superbikes with quickshifters. Also said sport has left my left leg somewhat under par.
Good luck with it.

Just looking at options, does anyone know proshifts pricing?

Has anyone used the kit from racegadgets? It looks rather nice and doesnt seem toooo badly priced!