Hi, I need this info urgently please, the car is in bits and the Haynes manal has gone AWOL.

I need the headbolt and cam cap torque settings on a 1990 Citroen AX 1.4 diesel.

Thanks,
Dave

Same engine as the peugeot 106 1.4 diesel knightmare of a piece of junk with liners????TUD3

[Edited on 28/3/06 by omega 24 v6]

aye, same engine.

cyl head bolts 60Nm then slacken then 20Nm thenangle tighten 160 degrees then angle tighten 160 degrees. Cam caps 20Nm. All as per the haynes book of lies.
Hope this helps but don't blame me if it all goes wrong as this is a pig of an engine to work on
What were the faults/symtoms youre sorting?

cheers dude.
do you have the tighting sequence too?

STOP if you got the last post about sequence ( it was for the cam cover bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
looking for the right info now.

Ok for the TUD 3 engine and the flywheel at the right hand side looking at the top of the engine.

10 6 2 3 7 fly
9 5 1 4 8wheel

Aye, I saw the first reply and thought WTF???

Thats great though, Thanks for all your help.

Dave.

your welcome and good luck.

dont take this the wrong way but say a prayer while your torquing the head down they do have a habit of pulling the threads out of the block and the liners coming unstuck

Froggy , Thats exactly why I wished him good luck luck and said don't blame me.
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt , blowing water again the same way again ,spat the dummy out ripped it to pieces again, found a cracked liner, fitted a s/h one from another engine c/w piston rod and shells, put it together torqued the head ( they were going to pull through so I left them at the point of no return). Ran the car for another two weeks and sold it on.
A mega economical car when it ran.
A nightmare when it did not
Glad to be shot of it.

grrrrrrrrr

Ok, so all was going well, but now we have problems.

Re-assembly showed up a cracked cam cap, which split completely when refitted.
Piss.
Having paid for the head to be surfaced and checked, we didnt fancy changing the head, so bagged a replacement cap from the scrapyard. A bit of a bodge, but the best option on a budget.
Re-assembly went fine and the head torqued ok, but the car is a nightmare to start, and once running there is a bad clattering/knocking from somewhere. It doesnt run well when cold, and discussion with my brother-in-law has turned up that when we had the head off and re-lapped the valves, they might have been fitted the wrong way round ie in the wrong order left-to-right. Im not sure about this, but cant think of any way to veryify it.
Another thing I thought of was the cam followers might have got mixed up. As they all have different sized shims on top, this might be the source of the rattling.
Anyone know the tolerances for the shims? or have any other suggestions?

Ideally, I would bin the engine, but second-hand stuff is stupidly expensive here so not an option just now.

Poor starting and clattering could mean you got the pump timing wrong?

My wifes old AX diesel was a job to start until I adjusted the valve clearances. Easy to do without removing cam. Cant remember settings though.

I have re-checked the timing and the pulley wheels still line up with the corresponding holes for the locking studs.

Brother in Law mntioned a possible problem with the diesel pump as it is slow to rev up and lacks power as if its not getting enough fuel.

sounds like a similar problem I had before I sold mine. It was free enough on the reving up but at certain points and times you would think the bugger was knocking. An old mechanic with 30+ years experience in deisels and plant said it coul;d be the injectors chattering???. But i was sick of the old peice of junk ans sold it on.
If you need ant info the Haynes is still lying in front of me just now from last week

By the way you say it all times up OK but did you lock the flywheel as well???.

[Edited on 3/4/06 by omega 24 v6]

if the haynes has it, could you post up info and tolerances for checking and setting the valve clearences please?. Dunno where I am likely to get shims from though without getting raped for the price.

VW and Ford shims both fit , suspect ford may be cheaper . If your stuck and can give me the sizes I may? still have a box of them( Will have to look, probably at the weekend)

OK the clearance for the valves are with the engine cold

INLET 0.15 +/- 0.075mm
EXHAUST 0.30 +/- 0.075mm
As usual as per the haynes book of lies so good luck and don't blame me.
Bet your sick of this engine by now?

[Edited on 4/4/06 by omega 24 v6]

Gah, i never locked the flywheel (couldnt see a hole to do so, and never usually bother) and it seems I fitted the cambelt 1 tooth out, hence the bad running.
My brother in law had a look and then refitted it 3 teeth out.

Having a look at it, there are ambiguous timing marks that we had mistakenly used, but we have figured it out now and got it fitted properly.
All runs well, but the valve clearences still need done.
We were worried about valve-piston contact with it 3 teeth out, but it seems to be running well apart from the ticking from the cam followers, so it looks like we got away with it!

We are now both of the opinion that if it goes wrong again, its getting sold as is!

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I said it at the start and I'll insert the quote again.

quote:

---

Same engine as the peugeot 106 1.4 diesel knightmare of a piece of junk with liners????TUD3

---

Its now knocking like a demented postman. Also it now smokes like a chimney when cold, but clears up when hot.

Going to look at another car this weekend.

poo.