Hi all, has anyone got any pictures of how the brackets they used to mount gear lever to the chassis? I've got one of the shorter MNR alloy ones https://shop.mnrsportscars.com/collections/controls/products/alloy-g earlever I can't decide on the easiest/neatest way to do it.

Is this for the GTM Coupe noted in your sig or something else? Happy to share how mine is mounted in my Locost 7 but no pictures I'm afraid. Pretty simple on the 7. Basically M10 holes drilled right across the top tubes of the tunnel frames horizontally. A length of M10 allthread studding passed right through the frame. As it goes through it passes through, in sequence, a washer, 2nr M10 plain nuts, 2 more M10 plain nuts, another washer, top hat brass bush M10 internal, 20mm external, turned down to 14mm for half the width of the lever. Lever pivot hole opened out to 14.5, another identical brass bush the other way around, a washer, 2 more M10 plain nuts then two more M10 nuts and another washer. The allthread is slightly shorter than the outside width of the tunnel frame. the outer nuts are tightened (just or you risk crushing the tubes) against the inside of the tunnel frame then the lock nuts tightened against them. The inner nuts are adjusted to position the pivot bushes where you want them side to side then tightened and lock nutted. This has worked fine on mine for many years.

Relatively simple on a Seven as Sanzomat says:

Brake line
Reverse panel

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Originally posted by Sanzomat
Is this for the GTM Coupe noted in your sig or something else? Happy to share how mine is mounted in my Locost 7 but no pictures I'm afraid. Pretty simple on the 7. Basically M10 holes drilled right across the top tubes of the tunnel frames horizontally. A length of M10 allthread studding passed right through the frame. As it goes through it passes through, in sequence, a washer, 2nr M10 plain nuts, 2 more M10 plain nuts, another washer, top hat brass bush M10 internal, 20mm external, turned down to 14mm for half the width of the lever. Lever pivot hole opened out to 14.5, another identical brass bush the other way around, a washer, 2 more M10 plain nuts then two more M10 nuts and another washer. The allthread is slightly shorter than the outside width of the tunnel frame. the outer nuts are tightened (just or you risk crushing the tubes) against the inside of the tunnel frame then the lock nuts tightened against them. The inner nuts are adjusted to position the pivot bushes where you want them side to side then tightened and lock nutted. This has worked fine on mine for many years.

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Heres mine.
Still working!

Rescued attachment g2.JPG

Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?

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Originally posted by nick205
Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?

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Shiny Gearlever

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Originally posted by 40inches

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Originally posted by nick205
Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?

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Yes Nick, or in my case rods/tubes

Shiny Gearlever

[Edited on 21-9-22 by 40inches]

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My picture above is the lever driving a push pul cable