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Author: Subject: steamy radiator...
A1

posted on 20/11/08 at 01:00 AM Reply With Quote
steamy radiator...

my radiators started steaming once the engines warmed up, it should be sealed, its brand new, so theres no real reason for it...i tested it up to about 1.5 bar (very roughly) and there was only the slightest sound of air escaping...would it be okay to use it on this or will any extra pressure make it go bang?
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blakep82

posted on 20/11/08 at 01:07 AM Reply With Quote
well, it'll boil dry eventually at the very least...
where did you buy it from? send it back!

[Edited on 20/11/08 by blakep82]





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A1

posted on 20/11/08 at 01:18 AM Reply With Quote
its not too bad though, just a wee bit of steam...
it only started happening after a wee incident where the water pump breather pipe came off and emptied the contents of the system everywhere, just after i gave the throttle a wee blip and turned ot off...there was quite a bit from the radiator too...it was after that i tested it...

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mad-butcher

posted on 20/11/08 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
Is it actualy leaking or just drying the water off the outside of the core after the spill
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Mr Whippy

posted on 20/11/08 at 08:22 AM Reply With Quote
Radiators do tend to steam a bit after being drenched and then drying off…






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britishtrident

posted on 20/11/08 at 08:54 AM Reply With Quote
Not adviseable to test at over 1.2 bar

Leaks show up more when antifreze is added to the coolant (because it reduces the surface tension).

Only certain way to locate a leak is to pressure test filled with coolant when cold,

The test has to be done when cold because hot water under pressure flashes off into steam which is is invisible.

However on modern alloy/plastic rads the only way to repairl a leak is to use epoxy.

The other way to stop a leak is to add K-Seal (NB K-Seal don't under any circumstances use Bars Leaks or Radweld)

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Mr Whippy

posted on 20/11/08 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
I have Radweld in all my water cooled cars plus the digger and have done so for well over 10 years, never had a leak or any issues what so ever with the stuff and also recently fixed Miss Whippys little corsa with it too.

great product






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mad-butcher

posted on 20/11/08 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
Now I'm curious I've always used radweld never had a prob. Pray tell me what's up with the stuff
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dubstar_04

posted on 20/11/08 at 12:04 PM Reply With Quote
I put radweld on my weetabix. I love it!!
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RK

posted on 20/11/08 at 02:08 PM Reply With Quote
Mine spews out the cap. Does this mean my cap needs replacing, or is there something else? It did it with no antifreeze and does it now with 50% antifreeze. Brown crap coming out as soon as the engine gets warm. Course, I haven't tried it since I put the fan on. Ideas??
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britishtrident

posted on 20/11/08 at 03:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I have Radweld in all my water cooled cars plus the digger and have done so for well over 10 years, never had a leak or any issues what so ever with the stuff and also recently fixed Miss Whippys little corsa with it too.

great product

Barrs Leaks and Radweld istr are mainly Ferrous Shulphate based which was fine in the old days when engines and radiators had large bore waterways and no thermostat.

Read the fine print warning on the Bars Leaks container --- it is death to modern engines with fine water passage ways such as Honda engines. More than a few Honda V6 engines have been knackered by it.

Radweld which is much finer isn't anything like as bad but it causes thermostats to stick and sludges up the water ways.--- thankfully usually open.

K-Seal is a totally different ball game more suitable for modern engines.

[Edited on 20/11/08 by britishtrident]

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britishtrident

posted on 20/11/08 at 03:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RK
Mine spews out the cap. Does this mean my cap needs replacing, or is there something else? It did it with no antifreeze and does it now with 50% antifreeze. Brown crap coming out as soon as the engine gets warm. Course, I haven't tried it since I put the fan on. Ideas??


Sounds like an airlock but it could be local overheating --- drill a couple of small holes in the thermostat to help it bleed --- of course you should also have a by-pass hose running back from the thermostat housing to the water pump.





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