iiyama
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 09:25 AM |
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Pre-flight checks
Following on from the touring thread below, what sort of servicing regime do you guys do? How often do you check the car and what do you check?
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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mark chandler
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 10:15 AM |
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On BEC
Change the oil in the engine when it starts to look dirty or after a track day
Change the oil every year irrespective, oil aborbs moisture to some degree so if laid up over the winter change it before using in the summer
ON TT
Change every 6,000 miles, service interval is 12,000 which is to long in my opinion.
Do Gearbox and axle once a year.
I do loads of miles these days, circa 40k per year in the TT, over the last 20 years I have never had to replace an engine/gearbox or axle in this
time.
Regards Mark
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tomblyth
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 11:09 AM |
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As above with the addition of (Slick 50 at "25k plus miles" you only do this once on each engine /gearbox !
Change break fluid every 4th year
Check coolant before eack winter and Change every 4th year
Change cambelt every 45K (and waterpump if its driven by the cambelt)
Check lubricate everything else that moves every year! replacing anything thats not 100%.
Most importantly give the brakes a visual once over every time you use the car ( these are the most important part of a kit car)
and with a kit car join the AA /RAC recovery incase you get too overenthusiastic and bend it!
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 11:49 AM |
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I used to check the oil and fluid levels every time I went out. Since I changed the engine they've not moved in 2 years, so I stopped checking
them. I go over the car roughly once a month or so. I've only ever found one lose bolt, although the brake fluid is coming for it's due
date, as is the oil. Otherwise, my car's never had a problem. If built properly, I don't see why a kit car should need any more attention
than a tin top. In some cases, it may need even less.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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iiyama
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 12:01 PM |
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Interesting! Theres me thinking you guys would be checking nuts and bolts every week! Got a BEC so I dont think putting Slick 50 in would be a good
idea?? Actually didnt think it was particularly good stuff in a CEC?!
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tomblyth
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 12:54 PM |
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Slick 50 coats metal surfaces in PTFE ( therefore not friction plates in bike clutches ) so ok in bikes , It lower friction in engines resulting in
more of the power making it to the back wheel , also its good if you have have oil problems.
e.g. A few years ago I was riding a GSX250 with slick 50 in over the Carter Bar (Scotland -England boarder) when the sump plug failed (assume it had
been overtightend by someone in the passed! and fell out taking the threads with it. I got the bike home 50 miles (no oil )although I did'nt rev
it hard I was impressed enough to use it from then on in every car bike I've ever owned!
Dont put it in engines without 20 of 30 k on them !!!
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 01:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iiyama
Interesting! Theres me thinking you guys would be checking nuts and bolts every week! Got a BEC so I dont think putting Slick 50 in would be a good
idea?? Actually didnt think it was particularly good stuff in a CEC?!
As long as the correct fittings are used, they shouldn't come undone. And my entire drivetrain is solid mounted too, so there can be a fair bit
of vibration.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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iiyama
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| posted on 8/2/09 at 03:17 PM |
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All taken on board! 
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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