jossey
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 10:09 AM |
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hydraulic clutch install. pedal box help.
I now have my zzr1100 in bits. ready to install.
but i need to build a pedal box.
Any one got any build plans.
Also how do i make my clutch work. it currently uses a hydraulic clutch on the bike.
HELP me please.
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designer
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 10:17 AM |
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A set of drawings for a floor mouinted Pedal box are in the Haynes Roadster Book
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jossey
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 10:21 AM |
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anyone got the book to hand to scan me a page. im using the ron champion book but my pedals are top mounted which is no good for the car.
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Guinness
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 10:23 AM |
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I have a 0.625" Wilwood master cylinder, with integral fluid reservoir, bolted directly to the front wall of the foot well (the Indy footwell is
double thickness steel in that area). Then a stainless, braided hose from there direct to the cylinder on the sprocket cover. Bleed screw is on that
cover.
The master cylinder is attached to the pedal via a standard clevis. However it is worth messing around with leverage and positions, as the action in
mine is a bit too severe.
I used to use the original bike lever / reservoir which was great, but the cables (between the pedal and the lever) kept snapping, so I changed over
to hydraulic operation. It's been much more reliable, but the action isn't as nice. If I could find a different bore m/c it might be
better, but at the moment, I'm just going to drill a couple of additional holes in the pedal and see if moving the clevis up or down improves
matters.
Thinking about it, do I need a larger master to make it less on/off or a smaller one?
Mike
[Edited on 1/6/10 by Guinness]
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jossey
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 10:35 AM |
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any pictures mike?
if i use thicker cable should that be ok for now?
or should i bite the bullet and build it with a m/c
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 12:19 PM |
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I used a bike (sv650 in my case but they are all similar) rear brake master cylinder. These are small bore (13mm) so you get a more progressive pedal
(than with larger bore cylinders). The good thing is that these are cheap, and come with a reservoir and hose, are light and well made.
The bad things are that the stroke length is short (about 14mm), and the mounting points are ideal for mounting to the bike, but you need some
bracketry in a car.
Just google "rear brake master cylinder" in google/images, and you will see what I mean.
If you are at the design stage, then I would encourage you to put in an additional spring to provide additional resistance. Normally the clutch is
hand controlled, so your feet will find the pedal very soft.
Matt
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jossey
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| posted on 1/6/10 at 12:26 PM |
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cheers matt.
:O)
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probablyleon
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| posted on 3/6/10 at 10:43 AM |
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This is a subject very close to my heart at the moment. I have a Blackbird engined Fury with a hydraulic clutch. I'm struggling to get the feel
from the clutch I'm after but I'm getting closer all the time.
I'm using an R1 rear brake master (brembo unit). It's connected directly to the pedal (via a clevis). I've recently drilled another
hole in the pedal much closer to the fulcrum. It's really close! I've also sprung loaded the pedal to give me some resistance.
I can almost live with it now. The next step for me if I decide to try and improve it further is to buy a Westfield unit which spins the master
through 180 degrees and actuation is done via a rocker. Not cheap (£250)
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jossey
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| posted on 17/6/10 at 02:44 PM |
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thanks all..
getting there with things just a new area for me is bike engines so im a little lost.
give me a V6 engine and i can play all day this bike lark is complicated stuff. :O)
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