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Author: Subject: R1 cooling
bigfoot4616

posted on 6/11/11 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
R1 cooling

on a 5vy. need to fit a coolant temp sensor for my dash. will it be best put in the pipe on the engine side of the thermostat?
as i'm planning on moving the stat 3-4" towards the rad i can easily fit in an inline sensor housing.

also as i will be replacing the stock oil cooler with a take off for my air/oil cooler what do i do with the hose to the stock cooler?
will it be ok blanked off?

thanks

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MK9R

posted on 7/11/11 at 07:48 AM Reply With Quote
I fitted the temp sensor inline between the termostat and top hose of rad.



Just leave the standard cooler plumbed in. I reused the sandwich plate from my old blade supplied by andy bates, you will find most sarny plates are 2 big for the 5vy and hit the casting, but this is a nice small one and fits well, although I did have to turn a small amount down from inside as the nut stopped the seAl making a good contact with the block.



Loads of info on my engine install here

http://www.austengreenway.co.uk/search/label/Engine%20upgrade





Cheers Austen

RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk

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adithorp

posted on 7/11/11 at 08:17 AM Reply With Quote
If you put the sender after the 'stat then you'll get a lower reading than the engine temp untill the 'stat opens. If you put it before the 'stat then it'll still be lower than true engine temp I'd have thought untill the 'stat was open and there was good flow. If you take the redundant oil cooler pipe back to the bottom hose and put the sender in there then you should see true engine temp.

What dash are you using? The R1 diagnostics run through the standard dash and make finding any problems a lot easier. It allows you to read the codes but also see sensor outputs and test operate actuators (fire injectors and plugs, etc).





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bigfoot4616

posted on 7/11/11 at 07:33 PM Reply With Quote
if i understand the manual diagrams properly the water in the oil cooler pipes hasn't been round the engine. highest temps would be up around the top of the engine i would of thought.
whats the pipe metal pipe out of the engine made from? could get someone to weld a boss on for the sensor, it would get a small amount of flow due to the pipe that goes up to the throttle body.

using the existing etb digidash so i don't have the R1 dash.

Austen
already read through your site several times, some usefull stuff there.

planning on using my old sandwich plate with a cover on, the sandwich plate has no chance of going behind the filter as it is a thermostat one.

thanks

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adithorp

posted on 7/11/11 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigfoot4616
if i understand the manual diagrams properly the water in the oil cooler pipes hasn't been round the engine. highest temps would be up around the top of the engine i would of thought.
whats the pipe metal pipe out of the engine made from? could get someone to weld a boss on for the sensor, it would get a small amount of flow due to the pipe that goes up to the throttle body.


thanks


Ahh, forgot that.





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bigfoot4616

posted on 9/11/11 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
after speaking to andy bates i've got a sandwhich plate like austen's on the way. having no stat shouldn't matter as for road use most of the oil cooler is covered by the no. plate which i remove if temps start to get to high on track.

austen, is that the return from the standard cooler t'd in next to your coolant temp sensor?

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blakep82

posted on 9/11/11 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
If you put the sender after the 'stat then you'll get a lower reading than the engine temp untill the 'stat opens. If you put it before the 'stat then it'll still be lower than true engine temp I'd have thought untill the 'stat was open and there was good flow. If you take the redundant oil cooler pipe back to the bottom hose and put the sender in there then you should see true engine temp.

What dash are you using? The R1 diagnostics run through the standard dash and make finding any problems a lot easier. It allows you to read the codes but also see sensor outputs and test operate actuators (fire injectors and plugs, etc).


how do cars like the polo deal with that then? where the temp sensor is in the radiator? or are there 2 temp sensors? i've got both my fan and gauge sender in the top hose... my thoughts are, the temps are only really important once the engine starts to overheat or when the fan needs to come on or off, both of which i guess should happen after the thermostat has opened anyway?





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bigfoot4616

posted on 9/11/11 at 06:30 PM Reply With Quote
main problem i see of having the sensor after the stat is if the stat fails closed. although every stat i've ever had to change has always failed open.
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MK9R

posted on 9/11/11 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigfoot4616
after speaking to andy bates i've got a sandwhich plate like austen's on the way. having no stat shouldn't matter as for road use most of the oil cooler is covered by the no. plate which i remove if temps start to get to high on track.

austen, is that the return from the standard cooler t'd in next to your coolant temp sensor?


Yes it is, direct from the cooler to top hose.

The only other mod needed for that sarnt plate is that the metal coolant pipe that comes out of the water pump needed to be bent out slightly and the spacer added you can see inn the picture, but that may be different on yours depending where the engine is mounted as the chassis rail was causing clearance issues with the cooler pipes, so had to rotate it





Cheers Austen

RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk

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matt_gsxr

posted on 9/11/11 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
how do cars like the polo deal with that then? where the temp sensor is in the radiator? or are there 2 temp sensors? i've got both my fan and gauge sender in the top hose... my thoughts are, the temps are only really important once the engine starts to overheat or when the fan needs to come on or off, both of which i guess should happen after the thermostat has opened anyway?


More than one sensor. The one in the Polo radiator is just a switch for turning on the fan, which is only needed when the water in the radiator gets too hot.

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bigfoot4616

posted on 10/11/11 at 10:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MK9R


Yes it is, direct from the cooler to top hose.

The only other mod needed for that sarnt plate is that the metal coolant pipe that comes out of the water pump needed to be bent out slightly and the spacer added you can see inn the picture, but that may be different on yours depending where the engine is mounted as the chassis rail was causing clearance issues with the cooler pipes, so had to rotate it


may be ok on mine as i think there should be no clearance issues with the chassis

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