MikeFellows
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posted on 21/5/12 at 10:20 PM |
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Busa Clutch Hydralics
I finally got round to filling my clutch fluid this evening and set about bleeding it
took much less than I expected but got all the air bubbles out and tightened the bleed nipple
the clutch peddle was rock hard, impossible to move. after some investigating I removed the slave cylinder completely and I cannot move that push rod
thing at all. I would of course expect it to be stiff but i cant move it a even a couple of mm.
ive taken a photo of push rod to help
to add that the slave cylinder is 100% working, when not attached to the push rod above
so what would stop me being able to press the clutch in?
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Davegtst
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posted on 22/5/12 at 07:25 AM |
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Have you changed the clutch springs at all? I put uprated barnett ones in mine and couldn't couldn't move the clutch even a mm. Turns
out mine had spacers fitted infront of the original springs which stayed in when i took the old springs out. When i put the new longer barnett
springs in they became coil bound and stopped the clutch from moving.
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MikeFellows
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posted on 22/5/12 at 08:08 AM |
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not even opened the clutch cover
I had planned to do them this week though.
I just thought though, there is no oil in the engine at the moment - would that make any difference?
Thanks
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Bigboystoys
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posted on 22/5/12 at 09:07 AM |
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No oil will make no difference. You won't move the rod by hand but if it's not moving under hydraulic pressure something Is not right. Is
the slave cylinder piston free to move while unbolted from engine?
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MikeFellows
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posted on 22/5/12 at 09:58 AM |
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yeah I can move the piston on the slave cylinder easily when not attached
Mike
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MikeFellows
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posted on 22/5/12 at 10:16 AM |
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spoke to malc at yorkshire engines
said the clutch plates are probably stuck as its been stood.
take the clutch off and soak the clutch plates over night refit and fill with oil
needed to do the clutch springs anyway so best order some of them now and do it all at once
thanks
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MikeFellows
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posted on 23/5/12 at 02:45 PM |
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hmm this seems to have made no difference
I removed each of the clutch plates keeping them in order and then soaked them in brand new engine oil over night.
today I refitted the clutch and at the same time installed some uprated clutch springs.
during the refit, I constantly checked everything was working by sliding the push rod in and out and all was fine, up until I installed installing the
clutch springs, when it became impossible to press again (as you would expect)
refitted everything and still the same, the clutch is impossible to press enough pressure causes fluid to be pushed around the piston of the slave
cylinder.
I have the nova racing / sbd slave cylinder and when not attached to the push rod seems to be working perfectly
help, i thought i was so close to getting this thing fired and running
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MikeFellows
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posted on 23/5/12 at 03:48 PM |
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ok maybe ive been a mong
i decided in my infinite wisdom to just push it hard and see what happened
it cant really be that stiff?
do BEC owners have extremely large left legs?
im wondering now if it isnt bled properly
thanks anyway, will play about some more
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phelpsa
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posted on 23/5/12 at 06:02 PM |
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What's your pedal ratio and master cylinder size?
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MikeFellows
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posted on 23/5/12 at 09:15 PM |
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pedal ratio - no idea, just where the push rod met the pedal if im honest
master cylinder is a wilwood 0.70
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cosmick
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posted on 24/5/12 at 07:30 PM |
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Mike.
You probably need to shorten the distance between the pivot and the fulcrum of the clutch pedal. right now, you will be getting far too much clutch
rod movement and the operation will be very coarse. If you close the distance between the pivot and the clutch push rod, it will make the lever ratio
much easier so the pedal will be lighter and the bite point will be much larger in foot movement so it will pull away nicely instead of grabbing
quickly.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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MikeFellows
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posted on 24/5/12 at 07:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cosmick
Mike.
You probably need to shorten the distance between the pivot and the fulcrum of the clutch pedal. right now, you will be getting far too much clutch
rod movement and the operation will be very coarse. If you close the distance between the pivot and the clutch push rod, it will make the lever ratio
much easier so the pedal will be lighter and the bite point will be much larger in foot movement so it will pull away nicely instead of grabbing
quickly.
yeah i think you might be right, it will do for the time being though for testing
thanks for your help
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