sean951
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posted on 19/9/04 at 06:08 PM |
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prop
hi,
im in the research part of my build, and i had a question thats been bugging me. why do bike engined cars have to have a 2 piece prop with a dampaner
in the middle if they have no reverse? is it just for vibration dampening? or is there other reasons? and how hard do you think it would be to source
these parts in the states? by the way, i think im going to use an r1 engine.
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 19/9/04 at 06:21 PM |
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A) The prop is very long other wise and would probally wind its self into a corkscrew.
B) The Sierra comes with a nice two part prop FOC that needs a little mod to sort the end to connect to the BE.
C) States being big as it is you should find a prop somewhere or you want to pay the postage.
[Edited on 19-9-04 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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sean951
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posted on 19/9/04 at 06:30 PM |
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thanks for the quick response
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Peteff
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posted on 19/9/04 at 06:57 PM |
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Most have a sliding joint in the prop as well because the engine is mounted at an angle to the axle and would vibrate itself to bits otherwise.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Tralfaz
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posted on 19/9/04 at 08:33 PM |
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Sean,
I just had mine made from scratch, rather than modifying an existing unit. It wasn't cheap, but your dealing with something turning at 5000
Rpm's, inches from your legs.
As stated already, having a 2 piece shaft helps with vibration and safety. If you look around a bit on the net you will find tables showing the
recommended maximum length of a shaft relative to rpm and shaft diameter.
I am curious, what type of car are you planning? Left or Right hand drive?
Brian
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sean951
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posted on 20/9/04 at 12:36 AM |
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Thanks for all the info.
Brian,
I would like to make a left hand drive car but because of the mounting of the engine i doubt it will permit room for the steering shaft. if you have
figured out a way around this problem i would love to hear about it. i thought about designing a chain device that would allow the engine to be
mounted closer to the center of the car but those are just ideas now. thanks for the input
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Tralfaz
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posted on 20/9/04 at 08:50 PM |
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Sean,
What type of car are you planning?
Brian
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sean951
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posted on 20/9/04 at 09:36 PM |
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Brian,
im planning on building a book locost with rx7 running gear and an r1 engine. at least for now i am, that might change. i havent decided what type
of rear end to go with. im leaning towards irs.
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Tralfaz
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posted on 20/9/04 at 11:49 PM |
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Sean,
If you want, forward me your Email address, I tried using the Email Icon in your posts, but it is evidently old. I can forward you a picture of my
engine,Reverse box, driveline arrangement. My car is a Caterham sized chassis,as you are building a Locost you will have loads more room to get the
steering column thru, but having said that, I have plenty as well.
Brian
PS, Hopefully I will have a site up soon
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Mark18
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posted on 23/9/04 at 07:36 PM |
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Just out of interest, why are you not using the rotary engine out of the rx-7? A lot more power with not too much more weight.
Mark
"I don't know what I may seem to the world. But as to myself I seem to have been only like a boy playing on the seashore and diverting myself
now and then finding a smoother pebble or a prettier shell than the ordinary, whilst the great ocean of truth lay all undiscovered before me." -
Isaac Newton
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sean951
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posted on 24/9/04 at 12:33 AM |
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Mark,
thats still an option, because i havent bought or welded anything yet. I still think i want to go with a bike engine though, for many reasons. the
sound, the gearbox, to say my car redlines at 11,000 rpm. to tell you the truth im not a big fan of the rotary engine, i know there efficient and
make tons of power per displacment, they just sound to much like a chainsaw to me. may still go with one though, 200hp in a lightweight car may get
the better of me.
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Tralfaz
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posted on 24/9/04 at 12:44 AM |
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My original plan was a Zetec, than a 13B Turbo and finally the R1. Actually purchased the first 2 motors!!!
200hp is great, but you are probably adding close to 200 lbs with the tranny, and the cost to get the 13b rebuilt......
I got my R1 with under 1000 miles for 900 dollars....
T
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Hellfire
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posted on 24/9/04 at 04:17 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Tralfaz
My original plan was a Zetec, than a 13B Turbo and finally the R1. Actually purchased the first 2 motors!!!
200hp is great, but you are probably adding close to 200 lbs with the tranny, and the cost to get the 13b rebuilt......
I got my R1 with under 1000 miles for 900 dollars....
T
R1 for less than £600 -
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sean951
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posted on 24/9/04 at 05:01 PM |
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I see them go for that much on ebay occasionaly. its seems to be 800-1400 or around there. a rotary rebuild is that much, and the r1 comes with the
transmission.
Brian,
would the 13b turbo fit in your chassis? If it does it must be a tight fit with the turbo plumbing and intake.
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Mark18
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posted on 25/9/04 at 07:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by sean951
Mark,
thats still an option, because i havent bought or welded anything yet. I still think i want to go with a bike engine though, for many reasons. the
sound, the gearbox, to say my car redlines at 11,000 rpm. to tell you the truth im not a big fan of the rotary engine, i know there efficient and
make tons of power per displacment, they just sound to much like a chainsaw to me. may still go with one though, 200hp in a lightweight car may get
the better of me.
I see - personally I agree with all your points, but I'd say the power/torque aspect would win me over - especially if I was in the states. I
doubt either will be a dissapointment - good luck with it.
Mark
"I don't know what I may seem to the world. But as to myself I seem to have been only like a boy playing on the seashore and diverting myself
now and then finding a smoother pebble or a prettier shell than the ordinary, whilst the great ocean of truth lay all undiscovered before me." -
Isaac Newton
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