T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
Gear Lever throw
Last time I tackled the gear cable bracketing, they were not heavy enough and were flexing quite a bit, Ive made heavier brackets with more vertical
adjustment, thinking this was the tightness I was feeling in the cable. With the new brackets there is a definite improvement....
Id read somewhere that the lever on the gearshaft end has to be at 90deg to the cable pull, got that sorted now.
The problem of cable nip is very slight, and is at the gear lever end, which I think is caused by the side deflection/arc caused by the throw of the
lever.
The gears can be selected both up and down, but it feels crap. Am I expecting too much here with the engine not running ?
|
|
|
loggyboy
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 01:34 PM |
|
|
Just add an extra joint to allow straight travel of the outcoming cable.
Mistral Motorsport
|
|
wylliezx9r
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 01:41 PM |
|
|
The gear change will be terrible without the engine running, your setup looks good to me.
I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
George Best
|
|
T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 04:00 PM |
|
|
Cheers guys, Its one of those jobs that will sit now until I get the thing running. Im not happy with it at the moment, but will iron it out later.
How do I put another joint in coyote ? will that not cause another pivot point ? The gear lever has a small bearing in the bottom already
|
|
jacko
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 04:11 PM |
|
|
Just a thought can you remove the bracket holding the cable and slip a rose joint over it as a moving bracket
|
|
T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 04:22 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by jacko
Just a thought can you remove the bracket holding the cable and slip a rose joint over it as a moving bracket
I will save that idea ! the bracket could easily be altered, that might be just enough flex in the top end of the cable for the throw of the lever
nice one !
|
|
Davegtst
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 04:29 PM |
|
|
Mine has quite a tight radius with the same cable but feels fine. What does the other end look like. As said before it will feel rubbish unless the
engine is running.
[Edited on 13/1/13 by Davegtst]
|
|
T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 04:45 PM |
|
|
The gear lever on the spline is at 90deg to the pull of the cable, the bracket on the xmember is going to get given more vertical adjustment, as the
cable is smoothest when the rear reaches the very top of the current bracket. So it may get slightly better once this one is done too
|
|
Davegtst
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
It doesn't look there there should be any problem at all like that. Have you tried it with the engine running?
|
|
T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 05:09 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Davegtst
It doesn't look there there should be any problem at all like that. Have you tried it with the engine running?
I wish .....
|
|
froggy
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
When I ran the twin set up it was all rod and was very positive even with the n/a motor having a criss shaft to get to the gear lever , your cable run
can't be much different to the kitten so might be worth a look if the cable feels a bit vague . I had a set of holes in the gearbox link to
alter the ratio .
[IMG]http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r187/froggy_0[IMG]
|
|
T66
|
posted on 13/1/13 at 05:56 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by froggy
When I ran the twin set up it was all rod and was very positive even with the n/a motor having a criss shaft to get to the gear lever , your cable run
can't be much different to the kitten so might be worth a look if the cable feels a bit vague . I had a set of holes in the gearbox link to
alter the ratio .
I have played about with extra holes at the gearbox end, at first I made the lever too long. Will have a look at that adjustment as well...
cheers Froggy
|
|
carse
|
posted on 17/1/13 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
T^^, out of interest, where did you get your gear lever from?
Thanks,
Carse
|
|
Davegtst
|
posted on 17/1/13 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
Probably a silly thing to say but you have fixed the outer cable at the gearbox end haven't you?
|
|
T66
|
posted on 20/1/13 at 08:48 AM |
|
|
Yes cable secured at the box end.
And the lever came from Zcars - £40.
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 20/1/13 at 10:18 AM |
|
|
How much throw are you getting at the actual gear lever? Wondering if perhaps the lever at the gearbox end is a bit long?
However a spherical joint or even rubber mounting the cable outer would fix this. You need to make sure that it's not binding at the other end
as well.
|
|
T66
|
posted on 20/1/13 at 11:13 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
How much throw are you getting at the actual gear lever? Wondering if perhaps the lever at the gearbox end is a bit long?
However a spherical joint or even rubber mounting the cable outer would fix this. You need to make sure that it's not binding at the other end
as well.
The rear most cable bracket doesnt have much vertical adjustment, so once the snow has gone I will make one. Also I need to spend time with the
gearbox end lever, playing with the different lengths. It works, I just want it to have less throw.
Are you talking a rose joint slipped over the threaded cable end?
Any pictures Mike ?
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 21/1/13 at 08:09 AM |
|
|
If you can shorten the gearbox lever to reduce the throw this may fix your cable binding problem at the same time.
Using a rose joint instead of your fixed bracket to make the cable outer self aligning would certainly be one solution, and probably the simplest
overall. You would only need a very small amount of movement however, so rubber mounting could also provide a fix e.g. mount the cable outer through
a rubber grommet with a washer either side. You would need to use lock nuts so you can get the nuts tight without compressing the rubber too much.
|
|