phil_far
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| posted on 4/12/04 at 05:53 PM |
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Swapping a Blade with an Injected R1
Guys,
I am considering of swapping my 95 Blade with a 2002/3 Injected R1. What additional bits and stuff do I need to consider? Besides changing
the engine mounts I suppose that the Prop adaptor plate needs changing as well right?
Any aother stuff I need to consider? What is the exact power gain?
Cheers
Philip
Philip
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Hellfire
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| posted on 4/12/04 at 06:38 PM |
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Side Panel(s) may need renewing altering as the manifolds maybe different. Engine wiring loom is also slightly different - it's more complex on
an R1. Gains in power are circa 40bhp. Clocks if you're using the original Blade one's.
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dern
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| posted on 5/12/04 at 12:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
 you definatly need the r1 clocks for it to run successfully or you cause yourself major headache electrically as the r1 needs to do its diagnostics
or it error reports
If you don't do this is there a diagnostics port you can read the errors from?
Mark
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phil_far
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| posted on 5/12/04 at 02:26 PM |
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My car is not on the road yet. However my Blade engine is fitted with a nice mount that took me a lot of time to fabricate and also have an adpotor
plate, clutch & throttle cabel from Westfield etc.., clocks, radiator, fuel pump etc.
There is a lot of expense involved. I think I should stick to the 'good Blade' first, see how it goes (do not have a clue of what
performance level these car offers since i have never driven one here in Malta; I believ there is not one to drive either) and then decide later on
I will probably be travelling over to the UK some time next year I suppose some of you will offer me a 'ride' in their car right?
Philip
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JoelP
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| posted on 5/12/04 at 05:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by phil_far
I suppose some of you will offer me a 'ride' in their car right?
we're not all perverts, you know...
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dern
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| posted on 5/12/04 at 09:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snoopy
 no theres not and because it cannot do its checks it then assumes theres a fault and sets itsself to either 3000 rpm max or 8000rpm max so your
stuck without em unless your electricall a genius also dont foeget you need the exup valve wiring in somewhere cos it also checks for its presence 
B*gger. Thanks anyway, makes the dash nice and easy at any rate
Mark
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zetec
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| posted on 11/12/04 at 12:59 PM |
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Don't have a clue about BEC. Could you not fit a aftermarket ECO to run fuel/sparks? All it would need is a crank sensor and poss throttle
position sensor fitted.
Then you could run whatever guages you wanted.
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dern
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| posted on 11/12/04 at 08:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zetec
Don't have a clue about BEC. Could you not fit a aftermarket ECO to run fuel/sparks? All it would need is a crank sensor and poss throttle
position sensor fitted.
Then you could run whatever guages you wanted.
That's not the problem, the r1 engine gubbins gives fault codes through the tacho and if
you used an aftermarket tacho you wouldn't get these. I was hoping there was a port somewhere you could plug into to get the codes if you had
problems but that would appear not to be possible. Having said that it did occur to me to plug in a set of clocks under the dash so you could look at
them when you did think you had a problem...
Mark
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Bob C
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| posted on 12/12/04 at 08:37 PM |
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I'm not so sure about that - if the R1 is like other bike engines the tacho signal is a clean 12V square wave at the relevant frequency, so
basically any tacho would have its needle flicking to 3000 or 7000 to display the fault code. Your only worry would be if the dynamics of the
instrument weren't fast enough to make it readable.
I'll know for sure in about 6 months time......
cheers
Bob
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