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Author: Subject: Advice on Yamaha R1/Fazer engines
Toed64

posted on 10/1/17 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
The old carb'd R1's are pretty dreadful compared with the R1-5VY, which is what you want.
The carb'd engines are mounted at the rear and front, the later (5VY) units use the 'modern' rear and head/upper case suspension, commensurate with the development of alloy m/cycle one piece frames. You'll have to fabricate mountings and frames, not terribly difficult.

The Riot isn't blessed with the longest engine bay in the world, which is why the R1 units fit so nicely. A trend setter in 'stacked' gearboxes (makes the engine short). A conventional set-up (less common now on modern engines) will require some engine bay extending, with some issues relating to driveshaft angles on the rear pickup diagonal... again not to difficult, it's a simple car to cut and weld.


Interesting, thanks.

As above, why is the early motor so much inferior to the injection motor?

The R1 seems to command a premium over many of the other bikes. If fabrication is needed to fit a later motor, I'd have to be convinced it's worth the extra hassle.

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Phil_1471

posted on 10/1/17 at 05:52 PM Reply With Quote
My R1 riot is pretty nippy, nothing particularly "dreadful" about it.... IMO





You can live in a car but can't rally a house

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The Knobs

posted on 10/1/17 at 06:20 PM Reply With Quote
What options are there for quieter air boxes on the R1 instead of a foam filter, without of course losing any power?
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CosKev3

posted on 10/1/17 at 06:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by The Knobs
What options are there for quieter air boxes on the R1 instead of a foam filter, without of course losing any power?


You don't like the noise or have you failed noise testing or summat?

I love the sound of mine on a foam filter

Air box will all depend on the bonnet clearance,you shouldn't lose too much power as long as the box is big enough and got a nice feed of air into it

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Toed64

posted on 10/1/17 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by The Knobs
What options are there for quieter air boxes on the R1 instead of a foam filter, without of course losing any power?


I talked to Northampton Motorsport about this - they are au-fait with the management system fitted to my Riot. They suggested that I refit an airbox, rather than keep the foam filter on the Suzuki GSXR TBs fitted to my R1 motor, saying that in their experience mapping for optimum power output would not achieve factory figures without an airbox.

I propose to go back to an OE airbox with a cold feed.

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The Knobs

posted on 10/1/17 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by The Knobs
What options are there for quieter air boxes on the R1 instead of a foam filter, without of course losing any power?


You don't like the noise or have you failed noise testing or summat?

I love the sound of mine on a foam filter

Air box will all depend on the bonnet clearance,you shouldn't lose too much power as long as the box is big enough and got a nice feed of air into it


I am planning on a number of trackdays this year and don't want to take the chance of being booted. Haven't had it tested as yet but exhaust sounds quiet enough but induction may well be the black flag excuse.

Maybe I will take it to my local airfield at Blyton and see how it goes.

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Toed64

posted on 30/1/17 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
The carb'd engines are mounted at the rear and front, the later (5VY) units use the 'modern' rear and head/upper case suspension, commensurate with the development of alloy m/cycle one piece frames. You'll have to fabricate mountings and frames, not terribly difficult.



Hello again,

I don't really relish the idea of chopping and fabricating new mounts if I can slot in another engine to the existing mounts. Whilst I know that you recommended the later engine, I've come across a complete but damaged, very low mileage, 2003 carbed Fazer 1000, for the sort of money that doesn't make me wince too much. It should be physically the same as my 2000 R1 motor, shouldn't it?

I know that the Fazer was turned down a bit, but I'm tempted anyway...

Will it fit?

Any advice would be very welcome.

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daniel mason

posted on 30/1/17 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
There's a guy in Scotland selling a Jedi gsxr1000 and he has the spare carbed r1 motor which was removed. It'll be cheap!
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Toed64

posted on 31/1/17 at 12:34 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
There's a guy in Scotland selling a Jedi gsxr1000 and he has the spare carbed r1 motor which was removed. It'll be cheap!


Thank you - that's interesting. Where is it advertised?

I was hoping to buy a running bike so that I have all of the parts that have been modified on mine, but I assume that the gent selling his R1 motor must have had the engine loom and ecu too.

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daniel mason

posted on 31/1/17 at 07:07 AM Reply With Quote
It's on uphillracers.im assuming he has everything to make it run
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Toed64

posted on 14/7/17 at 10:53 AM Reply With Quote
Hello again...

I thought I'd update after you all offered so much helpful advice and insight.

I didn't manage to either source a selection of bits to revert to carbs, or a whole damaged R1 with good enough components to make a worthwhile donor. The mechanical bits seemed to be in good fettle and the GSXR throttle bodies are reputed to be good, so I thought that it ought to be possible to make it all work as intended.

The wiring loom was a dreadful mess and I didn't really know where to start, so I thought that a race/rally control systems expert might. I took the car to Richard at Zen Performance in Erith. Whoever did the control system splice should probably not be allowed to play with sharp scissors!

Richard discovered that the immobiliser that had been installed for IVA had been used to switch power to the fuel pumps. The relay was not up to the job and had scorched, leaving some circuits live: one of the battery drains.

There was insufficient power to run the hpfp efficiently, particularly at high revs. This was likely to be the principle cause of power loss. I asked Richard to strip out all of the interesting wiring and start again. Now all circuits are appropriately switched, fused and relayed from a buzz bar and there are no longer 6 wires to the +ve terminal of the battery!

I bought a GSXR air box/filter for it and Richard's colleague is modifying the shatteringly noisy exhaust to mate up to Jeremy's original re-packable silencer that mounts across to the back chassis rail.

Once that's all on, it's going back on the rollers to be remapped. I'm really excited! I'm also slightly disappointed that I had to farm out the work!

I should have it back in a week or two.

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