sgraber
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 04:10 PM |
|
|
Difficulty finding used Rectifier/Regulator - Advice pls.
The rectifier/regulator for the Yamaha FJR1300 motor is almost $200 from the dealer. I haven't found anyone to sell me one used and I think they
are rare as hens teeth. I found a rectifier/regulator on ebay for an 05 R1 (very much cheaper) and it has the same connectors as my 03 FJR. I have
looked at both schematics and the connector wiring is identical. However... there is a difference in Amperage and Voltage that I can't
understand. Hoping someone here can help me sort it out.
FJR1300
Voltage regulator
-Regulator type=Semiconductor, short circuit
-Model=FH001 (SHINDENGEN)
-No-load regulated voltage=14.1 ~ 14.9 V
Rectifier
-Model=FH001 SHINDENGEN)
-Rectifier capacity=35 A
-Withstand voltage=200 V
Stator Coil resistance= 0.15~0.23ohms
R1
Voltage regulator
-Regulator type=Semi conductor short circuit
-Model=FH011AA ( SHINDENGEN)
-No-load regulated voltage=14.3 ~ 15.1V
Rectifier
-Model=FH011AA SHINDENGEN)
-Rectifier capacity=50 A
-Withstand voltage=100 V
Stator Coil resistance= 0.14~0.18ohms
Should I try to use this R/R?
[Edited on 4/25/05 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
|
|
|
|
|
chrism
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 04:38 PM |
|
|
Hi,
someone posted this link a while ago for purchasing aftermarket regulators/rectifiers.
http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_regulators_Home.html
----------------------------
A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
-----------------------------
|
|
|
Bob C
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 05:34 PM |
|
|
Steve,
I'd be wary of the R1 one - the rectifier's only half the volts of the pukka one so it would probably blow up at high revs & might
conceivably take the alternater with it (!).
There will be a safety margin but a factor of 2 is too risky.
Look for something else with the right voltage - they'll all do the same battery volts (14.4) and have about the same grunt regardless of bike
size - I'm sure something off a 600 would be fine.
The connections are (from memory) very easy - 3 phase from alternator & battery + & -
Bob
|
|
|
colibriman
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 06:04 PM |
|
|
you could also try www.patternparts.com
edit ; oops...that wasn't it first time
[Edited on 25/4/05 by colibriman]
aww heck...still not it.... its something like that..
[Edited on 25/4/05 by colibriman]
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
chrism
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 06:28 PM |
|
|
Its www.patternparts.net
----------------------------
A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
-----------------------------
|
|
|
colibriman
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 06:29 PM |
|
|
ahhhhh...good man..
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
stevebubs
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 06:44 PM |
|
|
??
quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
the rectifier's only half the volts of the pukka one
|
|
|
Bob C
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 07:01 PM |
|
|
these things are a 3 phase bridge rectifier followed by a buck regulator (I guess). The alternator is a permanent magnet affair so the output volts is
proportional to rpm. If the arrangement of magnets and coils is such that line to line rms voltage is say 100V at 10krpm, the DC link (between
rectifier and regulator) will be at 140V (ish) and the rectifier diodes will each have to withstand a reverse voltage of140V at some point in the
cycle. This would kill the R1 rectifier but not the FJR1300 one.
If you overdo reverse volts on a diode it avalanches - a condition characterised by very high heat dissipation indeed.
The regulator is like a transformer in that when it reduces volts, it multiplies current by the same factor, so the 2 systems will have similar output
power levels.
cheers
Bob
|
|
|
sgraber
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 07:26 PM |
|
|
Thank you BobC, Colibriman, all...
The situation I am finding wrt fjr1300 is that is a rare bird. Hardly anyone makes aftermarket and/or performance parts for it. 
Other than paying full retail at the local theivership (dealership) I have to find a 35A/200v rectifier/regulator from a more readily available bike.
But finding the specifications for bikes is hit and miss. Unless there is a website that lists all these items I will have to download the service
manuals to figure out the R/R specifications! What a pain.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
|
|
|
sgraber
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 11:07 PM |
|
|
Good News!
The '03 FJR1300 uses the exact same Rectifier/Regulator as the 2002-03 R1. That is a much more common bike, so finding the correct one will be a
simple matter of waiting for it to appear on eBay. woohoooo
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
|
|
|
stevebubs
|
| posted on 25/4/05 at 11:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
these things are a 3 phase bridge rectifier followed by a buck regulator (I guess). The alternator is a permanent magnet affair so the output volts is
proportional to rpm. If the arrangement of magnets and coils is such that line to line rms voltage is say 100V at 10krpm, the DC link (between
rectifier and regulator) will be at 140V (ish) and the rectifier diodes will each have to withstand a reverse voltage of140V at some point in the
cycle. This would kill the R1 rectifier but not the FJR1300 one.
If you overdo reverse volts on a diode it avalanches - a condition characterised by very high heat dissipation indeed.
The regulator is like a transformer in that when it reduces volts, it multiplies current by the same factor, so the 2 systems will have similar output
power levels.
cheers
Bob
]
OK...I was being blind - didn't see the withstand-voltage.
Thx
Stephen
|
|
|
