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Author: Subject: Fireblade wiring woes (again)
ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 07:35 AM Reply With Quote
Fireblade wiring woes (again)

Help, only 1 day to go to hit target of engine running in April!
Read thriough the various posts on here and thought i`d accumalated the best of all the advice and diagrams etc.
All other circuits, lights , hazzards, etc all ok But trying to get the thing started and it aint playing.
So now i'm testing to see what is (i've done) wrong.
Think i've got all the right bits earthed (clutch switch stand switch etc) but can`t get it to spark and fuel pump don't run with ignition on, before cranking.
Testing the fuel pump relay voltages and get this ....Fuel pump relay, as per bike diag 4 wires, yellow/white + white /yellow go to coils, black- from fused supply, blue/black to pump. With ignition on all but blue black are 12v (13-14v). I think that ECU should A), switch 12v to blue/black with ignition on and B), ground alternatley coil wires w/y +y/w to make sparks? Can anybody confirm that thinking or have any logic as to which ECU wires should be at what voltage to get it to work, so I can check at ECU.
The fuel pump itself has tested OK and I have now been told it probably wont run until the engine fires (as per honda book), so it may just be the sparks I am missing?
Any help appreciated.
Cheers
BTW thanks for the advice re the alarm system, its now in the bin!

[Edited on 29/4/05 by ReMan]

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colibriman

posted on 29/4/05 at 07:46 AM Reply With Quote
Colin,
Have you got +12v at the coils?

the black/white to coils is +...not -ve (just in case...that was my mistake when I first tried)

Colin
p.s. give me a call if you want to gab about it.





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shortie

posted on 29/4/05 at 07:54 AM Reply With Quote
I vote for ripping out the fuel pump relay and taking it from there, simplifies things alot!!

Rich.

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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by colibriman
Colin,
Have you got +12v at the coils?

the black/white to coils is +...not -ve (just in case...that was my mistake when I first tried)

Colin
p.s. give me a call if you want to gab about it.

Yep got my 12v+ at coils, (on the black and white, which i joined to the black , bypassing the ignition kill switch) both sides, thats why I think the ECU switches them to earth at the Blue Yellow/and Yellow /Blue (Sorry I lied about the colours earlier )

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colibriman

posted on 29/4/05 at 09:03 AM Reply With Quote
are you getting anything at the starter solenoid when you press your start button?





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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 09:07 AM Reply With Quote
Engine is spinning over OK
Sorry if I was'nt clear on that.

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colibriman

posted on 29/4/05 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
was it an rrp you have? (lookin at the diagram now!)





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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
Yes, early one with mechanical speedo. It did all work on the bike so, unless very unluck the component parts are still OK
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ChrisGamlin

posted on 29/4/05 at 09:59 AM Reply With Quote
I assume there's no possibility that you have accidentally been given a later ECU have you? If so then this would cause the symptoms youve got as the ECU will be expecting to see ~3v on the pin that connects to the pink wire on later looms. Without this, it wont spark and probably wouldnt fire the fuel relay either as the later engine didnt have this, the carbs were gravity fed so there wouldnt be a relay present (ie if the ecu triggers the relay, the later ECU wouldnt do this).

Chris

[Edited on 29/4/05 by ChrisGamlin]






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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
Unfortunatly not
I bought and broke the whole bike, though I have a later loom and ecu as well I dont think i've mixed them up yet

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 29/4/05 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
What year is the later loom? Why not try the later ecu/loom on there and see what that does, just as a test? They are all pretty much interchangeable apart from the coil pickup wires being different colours and the 97 onwards having the throttle position sensor (which you could probably get away without just for this test).






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tks

posted on 29/4/05 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
Mhhhh

Lets start at the beginning,

You say that you connected the neutral to ground????

wy?

The neutral switch is in de middle of an diode..

if i was you i would just let it there...
like it was just hook up a bulb like in the bike in that way you can see while testing if it is still in neutral.

What you could do, and i think that one is better...

hookup the clutchswitch and switch it while starting....

mhh now thinking at it, is the pump ok?
i mean don't you messure voltage or is it just the pump thats fault..

can you publish a shematic?? of your bike think it helps better...

-anyway this is needed for a good start:

- Gear in Neutral or
- If Side stand up and clutch
- If side stand down, NEUTRAL!!! engine goes off if you put a gear in....



Regards,

TKS





The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.

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alister667

posted on 29/4/05 at 01:02 PM Reply With Quote
With regards your fuel pump. If I remember correctly (and that's no certainty!) I just wired a 12V ignition line (ie comes on with the first turn of the key) and a gnd to the fuel pump. My blade engine (a 99) didn't have a fuel pump as standard - but this works fine. It might help simplify things a wee bit as shortie says.





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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 06:10 PM Reply With Quote
HOLD EVERYTHING!
I THINK I MAY HAVE SORTED IT.
WILL BE BACK LATER WHEN SURE

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titch

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:01 PM Reply With Quote
Well?????????????????????
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Hellfire

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:08 PM Reply With Quote
Tum-te-tum. " Two hours gone now...................






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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote

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titch

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
What was the problem then
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alister667

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
Well done. Now all the details please :-)





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ReMan

posted on 29/4/05 at 08:39 PM Reply With Quote
Well I do have to eat (too much) and drink (a lot).
I am a country member!
Due to the unfeasable depth of the fireblade ignition coil HT lead hole, the sparks wern't getting out of the HT coil to the HT lead and then the plug
With the original bike leads in my hand It became apparent I might have a problem....
Fitted a couple of these and re did the wiring i'd pulled apart looking for the fault , bingo
Otherwise everything I had done was working
I'll do the big thanks very soon if it really works with petrol................................................................................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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ReMan

posted on 30/4/05 at 11:33 PM Reply With Quote
New HT leads made, fuel pump bypassed onto wash wipe switch, exhaust fitted( you have got to see it!!!)
Wil be attempting start up tomorrow unless late back from Stoneleigh) otherwise Monday

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