Xy
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 12:34 PM |
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Fireblade clutch changing
I'm planning to change the clutch (friction plates) in my 'blade car over the weekend.
I will have the trusty 'Haynes' by my side, but does anyone have any pearls of wisdom to help things go that little bit smoother ???
Also, are there any other checks that I can carry out (on things like the steel plates) to ensure that everything is in order ??
TIA
Matthew
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 01:07 PM |
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Off the top of my head......
1, Make sure you get all the old friction plates out, the last couple are a b1tch to get at, a couple of pieces of wire with bent ends act as good
hooks to prise them out.
2, get a torch in there and check the outer basket for cracks, particularly around where the "fingers" start (the bits that protrude out
towards you when looking at it)
3, replace the springs with extra strong ones if you haven't already (Barnett are good).
4, check the metal plates for blue-ing or warping. Light blue-ing can be taken off with wet-n-dry but if they have been over-heated and blued a lot
then replace those too. To check warping just stack them all on top of each other and look for gaps between the plates with a feeler gauge ideally.
Also check thier thickness against the Haynes specs.
5, soak the friction plates in mineral oil the night before putting them in.
6, if you are buying the friction plates individually, buy an additional regular plate and don't buy the inner most narrow plate with the anti
squal shim. Just use the same friction plates throughout as it slightly increases the clutch friction area and the squal shim doesnt seem to have any
significant effect.
7, make sure the last friction plate locks into the outer basket on the seperate little recesses rather than into the main basket channels.
8, use a new gasket and make sure the clutch lever engages properly before doing up all the clutch cover bolts only to find you need to undo em all
again 
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Xy
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 01:20 PM |
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Thanks for the swift reply !!!!
I've got the Barnett springs ready to go in at the same time, so thats good.
Thanks for the tip about the last friction plate - I was wondering why the last plate was different in the first place !!
If the metal plates are warped, will that cause the clutch to engage slightly and drag ??
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 01:48 PM |
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If they are warped it could do that, but it will also make it judder when pulling away - you dont want to be making pulling away any trickier!
It may also cook the frictions quicker as it wont be engaging as smoothly and slipping / juddering more. If really bad I guess it could also increase
the shock through the clutch and cause a friction plate to break up or do other damage.
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tks
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 02:26 PM |
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mhhh
you could also mention chris
that's its nearly a sport and tradition
that you try to save you the pennies of the basket seal.., you could buy a new one..
when i looked at my clutch it already costed me one.. (6 pounds)
regards
TKS
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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alister667
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 03:29 PM |
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Be careful not to overtorque the bolts that go through the the clutch springs - IIRC they're alloy and over tightening can cause premature
failure.
Haynes has the correct details in it somewhere.
http://members.lycos.co.uk/alister667/
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Xy
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 06:47 PM |
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How important is it to soak the friction plates overnight ??
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/5/05 at 09:39 PM |
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It helps prevent the possibility of getting a dry clutch plate which then sticks as you put it all together. Some people also find it helps the clutch
life to be pre-soaked although Ive never noticed it.
You could just soak em for an hour or two beforehand if you dont have time overnight.
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