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Author: Subject: Problems With Using R1 Engine ?
RichieC

posted on 28/10/05 at 03:15 PM Reply With Quote
Problems With Using R1 Engine ?

Hi all,

I was virtually convinced I was going to use a 99 R1 engine in my build. However, I have read a huge number of posts where peeps have had trouble in starting them with cyclelock problems etc.

Is there an easy way to avoid this from the start? Or is it more a case of trial and error?

Seems like I could be opening a can of worms which Id rather avoid now.

Ive also read that the EXUP motor both is and isnt needed, can anyone clarify this.

So far the list I need is:

Engine
Carbs
Fuel Pump
Loom
CDI/Rectifier/Coils
Clocks

Are there any glaring errors?

Thanks

Rich

Thanks for any advice

[Edited on 27/11/05 by RichieC]

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 28/10/05 at 04:24 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Rich

The cycle lock issue really depends on whether the donor bike had the optional alarm/immobiliser installed or not. If it didnt, there is nothing to bypass as the loom already has the required bypass plugs installed. If it does have a cyclelock then you will need to bypass it, but Im sure the people who have now overcome that will be able to tell you whats needed (its only a matter of joining a few wires together - just the right ones!)
To be honest though, I think that some (not all) of the problems people have with starting maybe arent to do with that anyway, and are just the usual culprits like incorrectly spliced sidestand / clutch wires etc etc.

The EXUP valve isnt required, although on carb engines I believe it does give an error code on the dash if disconnected, so if you are planning on a carb engine and plan to use the bike clocks, then you may be best off getting the EXUP and just putting the motor into the loom to avoid this, or speak to someone like JimG or Paul Rodgers who could tell you which wires to splice to minimise this error.

Chris

[Edited on 28/10/05 by ChrisGamlin]






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smart51

posted on 28/10/05 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
The whole cyclelock thing is easy-if-you-know-how. I found out the hard way but came through it. the trick is to find someone who has done it before. I wouldn't let it stop me from using an R1 again, but then I know how to do it now.
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mnr laptop

posted on 28/10/05 at 07:16 PM Reply With Quote
as long as you get the whole lot in one package you cant go wrong, you need the exup servo to stop the error code on the dash, the carbed engines are easy to sort much easier than injected motors

best regards

marc

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RichieC

posted on 28/10/05 at 07:35 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys, thats set my mind at rest a bit.

Ill be buying the engine (definately carbed) and ancillaries as a kit. Is it just the servo you need then (providing you dont wire it out) or do you need to utilise the valve aswell.

Ill pick your brains nearer the time smart51, Im sure its easier having come through it.

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 28/10/05 at 07:42 PM Reply With Quote
No need for the valve itself, just leave the motor plugged into the loom and tuck it all under the dash I believe






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G.Man

posted on 28/10/05 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
No need for the valve itself, just leave the motor plugged into the loom and tuck it all under the dash I believe


Correct and far cheaper than these exup elimnators







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athoirs

posted on 28/10/05 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
If you look at for sale I have a complete Fazer (basically same as a R1) going for £1100.. All ready with the clocks, indicators..etc even the ignition switch wired up ready for use!!
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ChrisGamlin

posted on 28/10/05 at 09:43 PM Reply With Quote
I was just about thinking to myself "bloody hell thats expensive, you can pick up a pukka R1 for less than that" but then I looked at your ad and realised you're also including the exhaust, prop adapter and speedohealer in that price, so maybe you're comment above didnt really do you justice, cos thats a decent deal overall!






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G.Man

posted on 28/10/05 at 10:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
I was just about thinking to myself "bloody hell thats expensive, you can pick up a pukka R1 for less than that" but then I looked at your ad and realised you're also including the exhaust, prop adapter and speedohealer in that price, so maybe you're comment above didnt really do you justice, cos thats a decent deal overall!


The fazer thou is very much underated... alledgedly its heavier, but looks nicer due to the silver powder coat and produces good torque..

Bigger carbs and a change of cams would see it match the r1 with some better ratios for road use...

I doubt most would need that tho, its only a few peak horsepower down, and amuch more tractable motor than the r1...

Loved my fazer thou compared to an r1







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Winston Todge

posted on 28/10/05 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
I've looked over and over at the R1 and Fazer manuals and can't spot any difference in cam duration and lift figures... They look like exactly the same cams from the manuals. I think the difference in power is accounted mainly by the less direct inlet ports in the head and the smaller carbs. The smaller carbs might also explain the increase in torque lower down due to a faster moving charge of air at lower revs?

Another difference is the lack of an engine mount at the back of the block when compared to the R1... This is used by MNR to mount their R1s in their cradle but Marc would be able to fabricate one for the Fazer no doubt.



-



The mount is marked 'D' on the R1...

The other differences are the side exit sump plug for a little more ground clearance and a coil sprung clutch as standard, where the R1 uses a diaphragm. The Fazer's more horizontal carb mounting also allows you to fit the airbox in under the hood more easily, as shown by atthoirs install...

All in all I think that deal is pretty competitive from atthoirs...

Chris.






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G.Man

posted on 29/10/05 at 07:14 AM Reply With Quote
The difference is in the cam timing... this can be changed with cams or vernier pulleys..







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