MartinDB
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 posted on 20/12/05 at 03:20 PM |
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Digidash senders and R1 engine.
I'm hoping there's a few people out there using a Digidash in an R1 powered car.
Where have you fitted the oil pressure and temp senders and the water temp sender?
Thanks,
Martin.
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speed8
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 03:42 PM |
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I believe a few people have fitted a sandwich plate between the filter and the block.
I haven't got that far so I'm interested myself.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 03:43 PM |
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For oil pressure and temperature senders, take a look at
THIS page. I have a t-piece which screws into the oil
cooler bolt and provides an oil feed to both pressure and temp senders.
I believe there are other ways of tapping into the oil flow on an R1, but this method is neat as you can remove the oil cooler bolt to tap it and
it's less destructive if you screw up!
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Bob C
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 03:52 PM |
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The R1 manual indicates an oil gallery closed by a bolt on the head & suggests this is used to check for oil pressure by loosening it &
checking that an oil leak occurs!
Is there a good reason why I shouldn't screw a pressure sender unit straight into this?
engineering a sandwich plate just for senders sounds way OTT!!!
Bob
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speed8
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 03:58 PM |
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sandwich plate
One of these maybe.
http://www.thinkauto.com/takeoff.htm
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 03:59 PM |
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For oil temp I've welded in a boss into the sump, for oil pressure Ive got a remote filter setup so have tapped into that but the usual one is as
detailed on the Fluke website linked to above, or on Richard Miles's website.
For water temp Ive welded a boss into the water pipe that comes out of the head, its a good place for it because its right in the main flow of water
and before the thermostat.
 
Digidash Temperature Sender
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 04:03 PM |
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Bob, no reason as far as I can see why not to use the take off on the end of the gallery, a friend of mine uses that and has had no problems, although
I think it might need re-tapping to suit so may not be 100% straightforward. Its actually theoretically a better place than the down by the oil filter
because its the same gallery as the main bearings use so slightly more representative of the actual pressure the critical bits of the engine are
seeing.
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Bob C
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 05:20 PM |
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Cheers Chris,
I'll check threads in the fullness of time - I might be lucky but don't expect to be! Otherwise it's a wee extension. It occurred to
me that bike engines vibrate at double the frequency that the senders are designed for so that might account for increased snappage probability; but
if it screws in alright I'll try it anyway!
cheers
Bob
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 05:26 PM |
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Those pics on the fluke site are of my engine. Tapping the oil cooler bolt for oil pressure is a cheap and effective solution.
Its unlikely to snap but a pal of mine went through 2 etb senders that were screwed straight into the block. Remopte mounting is for the sake of the
sender.
[Edited on 20/12/05 by jimgiblett]
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Bob C
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 05:40 PM |
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Yo Jim - did that circuit work??? I guess you've probably not tried it yet. . .
Bob
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MartinDB
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 05:50 PM |
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Cheers Gents,
I was worried it was going to give me some sleepless nights, but it doesn't look too complicated.
Martin.
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RMK
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 posted on 20/12/05 at 06:15 PM |
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oil pressure
for my oil pressure i had an adaptor made for the m6 bolt on the left hand side of the head just behind the headers and attached my oil pipe to this.
no problems.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 20/12/05 at 06:18 PM |
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Bob, I am fairly certain that was Jim's old engine so yes it has been tested. Its the same as how Richard Miles and several others have done
theirs too.
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 10:31 AM |
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Rich Miles had his sender mounted via a sandwich plate mine its drilled and tapped straight into oil cooler bolt.
A tenner to drill and tap. a couple of adaptors and a length of grease gun pipe. Job done. Never had any problem with it.
Sorry Bob still sorting the wiring will get there soon (hopefully).
I had a look at the engine this morning andw ouldnt fancy having an oil pressure take off from the head gallery as it is very close to the exhaust.
Okay for checking in the workshop but on full chat on a circuit I wouldnt be very happy.
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Bob C
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 11:55 AM |
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I guess the oil cooler location is somewhat nearer to the CoG of the engine so the amplitude of vibrations should be a bit smaller. Also I can make it
the exact right thread for the sender - OK I'l probably do the same - I will try direct mounting though- plenty of room down there for the
transducer
Bob
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smart51
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 12:10 PM |
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I've put my temperature sender after the thermostat, just because that's where it is on the bike. It also lets me know when the
thermostat opens.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 01:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
I will try direct mounting though- plenty of room down there for the transducer
Bob
As was mentioned before, I'd strongly recommend remote mounting it. The pressure senders aren't solid state and are very susceptable to
vibrations. I remember a few years ago over the course of a few months several people on the BEC list fitting pressure senders directly to the engines
and they all seemed to be failing.
Smart51 - if you look at the thermostat housing on the R1 I think you'll find that the temp sender sits just before the thermostat itself,
otherwise the ECU wouldnt know the engine temperature and wouldnt be able to fuel accurately whilst warming up, Im sure this is the case on my 2003 FI
engine anyway.
[Edited on 22/12/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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Coose
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 01:54 PM |
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Chris - carb models have it installed in the radiator! This is probably because they have a manual choke, as opposed to your cold-start richening
injection malarkey.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
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G.Man
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 01:57 PM |
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My oil pressure sensor is mounted remotely from the original oil pressure switch location...
The temp sensors will be mounted in the top hose and the dry sump tank...
Thts because I want to know the oil temp before it enters the engine...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 03:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Coose
Chris - carb models have it installed in the radiator! This is probably because they have a manual choke, as opposed to your cold-start richening
injection malarkey....
Ah ok, learn something every day! Its a bit of an odd place though isnt it, Id think it would be preferable to have it say in the head where it will
give you a more accurate reading of whats actually going on inside the engine, for example if the thermostat stuck closed you wouldnt know anything
about it until it was possibly too late and it had boiled, unless you happened to notice that it took slightly longer than normal for the stat to
open.
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G.Man
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 04:30 PM |
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Surely the one in the rad is the fan temp switch??
Engine temp sender should be on the cylinder head..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 08:46 PM |
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Thats what I would have thought too!
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Ferrino
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| posted on 22/12/05 at 10:44 PM |
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quote:
Surely the one in the rad is the fan temp switch??
On the 98/99 R1 rad there is both a fan switch and a temp sender. I've just replaced the Yamaha sender with my aftermarket one (ie. in the rad).
Can always be moved to pre-thermostat position if really necessary.
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