Guinness
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 04:46 PM |
|
|
Charging battery?
Was out on Sunday morning and the car started miss-firing under load at high rpm and was difficult to start again after I'd filled up.
Put it down to a flat battery, as I haven't been out much in it recently.
Put the battery on charge overnight, and swapped the alternator over this afternoon (just in case).
Seems to have cured it.
Question is, how best to charge the battery up / drive next time out? I can put the battery on trickle charge when in storage, but on the road,
would I be best off running with the side lights on or headlights even on the next blat out?
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
your symptoms could be too rich a mix, maybe?
failing that, new battery after a few voltage tests etc.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
Depending on the type of battery, it would be a good idea to have it on trickle charge when in storage - lead acid cells don't like to be
discharged for any length of time. The Optimate is a good charger and not too expensive.
As far as running is concerned, it probably won't make any difference if you switch the lights on as the regilator will simply adjust the charge
rate to suit the load.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 06:38 PM |
|
|
On a similar note, my car also does this. But worse; to the point where it just runs like a bag of nails and then stops. A quick charge of the battery
and all's well. Are bike alternators just rubbish, or do they wear easily?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 10:00 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
Are bike alternators just rubbish, or do they wear easily?
Most are designed for typical loads of a conventional bike - single headlight & tail lamps and very little else. If you have twin headlights, you
could try lower wattage bulbs. I remember my ZZR100 has 2 x 40w headlights and when I unwittingly changed them for conventional H4 bulbs the
alternator melted! 
You could also try using led replacement bulbs for everything possible as they consume very little power indeed. My middy only has two conventional
bulbs (headlights) and I can power all the lights (including hazards) from a 9v PP3 battery!
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 04:09 PM |
|
|
I thnk thet main problem is driving at dusk with the lights on. If i run into traffic and need to switch the fan on, the lights visibly dim! I think
it could be that the alternator is just not up to the charge levels I need. Is there a fix for this, or am I stuck with just topping the battery up
form time to time?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
Don't know what the answer is but I am trying two new things.
Bought a trickle charger and wired up a socket in the dash, back to the battery (via a fuse). Connected the output from the charger to a plug so I
can just plug it in and leave it permanantly charging when parked. The socket will also provide 12v power outlet for accessories, without looking
like a cig lighter!
Also (hangs head in shame) I'm still using the original car battery that came out of my donor sierra.
I think it might be on it's way out, so I'm going to replace it with a bike battery. I've seen the odessey ones, but can't
justify the £70 plus outlay on it. Anyone recommend a cheap source for bike batteries?
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 06:26 PM |
|
|
I still have a car battery in mine. Can this cause issues?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 06:35 PM |
|
|
I have the same problem...
what i discovered was this.
If everything is cold..
and you don't apply trottle the Reg holds it
and delivers in my situ 12,8volts on a 30% full battery.
while heating itself up the voltage drops slowly until i measure 11,2 volts...
WITHFAN:
when i just hang a fan on it of a small shape like a pc one but without the meatl.
i reach 12,8volts but constant but if i apply throttle.. its like a impressive amount of energy needs to pass thru the reg. and then it shutsdown
again...
voltage drop to 11,8volts..
or something..
Basicly the more heat it can loose the better it will perform!
what i want to give a try is to mount 2 of them parallel!!
because of the temperature i'm almost 100sure they balance each out.. (its important in electronics that equipments/components balance each
out).
almost sure it will then be up to the job.
also mount it vertical if you can with the fins in vertical position because heat wants to go up, and doesn't like to be stuck behind a
corner..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 07:16 PM |
|
|
Hi TKS,
unfortunatly the regulator on the zzr's alternator is on the back of the unit, much like a car one, which is cooled by vanes or fans on the rear
of the rotors, so adding cooling isn't an option for me.
I have just checked, and the zzr haynes specs a 14ah battery. The sierra one i have now is 60ah
I guess the alternator is never really getting enough charge to the battery?
Guess it's a trip up Westgate Hill tomorrow afternoon then!
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
The 60ah is simply the capacity of the battery. Having more capacity will let you crank the engine for longer or 'forgive' you when you
leave the lights on 
Although it will take longer to fully charge the larger battery it will not make much difference unless it is knackered - in which case it just
absorbs the charge and produces heat.
As I mentioned before, it would be a good idea to check the output of the alternator and balance this against your lighting loads.
I would stick with the larger battery if you have the room - just make sure it is healthy.
[Edited on 19-9-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 10:02 PM |
|
|
yeah
in fact!
what produces the heat is the amount of energie wich goes thrue the regulator.
when the voltage difference is big. i mean to say.
The car battery of you has a voltage of 11,8volts in rest and while running the reg without charge gives 13/14volts.
then there is a potential difference..
sow the regs wants to pull the battery upto 13/14volts...
when the difference in voltage is to high the amps will also go high!
in fact a normal car battery charger is just a few amps (6 / 10 amps) is quick charge if i'm informed sow the reg just can't handle it.
its just what razman saidwith my words)
If you use or waste more energie then you charge you just run empty!
if you use less then you can charge you will be spoton!
sow the battery condition is a important player in this scheme!
iff his charging effeciency is low you will waste allot of energie of the reg. resulting in heat and heat generates more heat...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 19/9/06 at 10:04 PM |
|
|
also
i think because the regulator is an electronic device..
it only can regulate to a couple of more volts then the battery has! (reference voltage) sow once running flat charging time rises...
anyway i like a good powersupply because its lightweight..
and i don't like to see my light dance on the revs or dim or whatsoever..
tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
