KAMBO
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| posted on 25/10/08 at 09:29 PM |
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bitten the bullet...R1 LOCOST
after a week of concideration and much research.......i have bought an R1 engine for my locost mainly down to power to weight and hp per £...so i
collect it next week.......
the question is how much of the original wiring loom do i need for my "ron" and also what other bits do i need header
pipes...coils...cdi..reg/rec...fuel pump..switchgear...gear lever...airbox..clocks..choke cable...so on and so forth
[Edited on 25/10/08 by KAMBO]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 25/10/08 at 09:54 PM |
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Everthing you can get your hands on, seriously.
The loom will run you entire car with a bit of extension of wires so no need for other switch gear, loom etc.
Everything for the engine, without this it will not run. Exhaust headers even if bent up as you can cut the ends off and make your own pipes, at least
you get the choice anyway.
Regards Mark
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tjoh84
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| posted on 25/10/08 at 10:17 PM |
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hiya i had my locost converted it on ebay locost r1 might be better off buying an allready bec than converting yours
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KAMBO
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| posted on 25/10/08 at 10:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tjoh84
hiya i had my locost converted it on ebay locost r1 might be better off buying an allready bec than converting yours
thanks for the offer but i'm rather looking forward to building mine........
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nitram38
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| posted on 26/10/08 at 06:45 AM |
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Just a bit of advice, the loom will run everything but is not a good idea.
Having only one fuse per lighting circuit is not good because in the event of a fault you lose everything. You are better off splitting the lighting
left and right and putting in a seperate fuse for each.
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001Ben
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| posted on 26/10/08 at 09:47 AM |
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I think you will need the whole loom for the engine and then you will only need to bypass a couple of wires. Assuming you will be using the r1 clocks
you will need:
R1 clocks
R1 harness Wiring
Baffle Plate
Engine Wiring - Rectifier, coils, , relays etc
Exup Valve
Dynojet kit
Exhaust Headers
Exhaust
Upgraded Clutch Springs - Barnett
Clutch Cable
Gear linkage mechanism ( paddle or tunnel)
R1 fuel pump
Coolant Hoses
Propshaft
the swicth gear can be either push buttons on the dash or maybe the original r1 switch gear however I think this will possible be in the way if you go
for a paddle shift option
HTH
Ben
[Edited on 26/10/08 by 001Ben]
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IDONTBELEIVEIT
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| posted on 26/10/08 at 09:59 AM |
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quote:
Car engine to Bike Engine Conversion - Parts List and FAQ's ( CEC to BEC Conversion )
Are We There Yet, Are We There Yet!!!!
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Coose
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| posted on 26/10/08 at 02:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
Just a bit of advice, the loom will run everything but is not a good idea.
Having only one fuse per lighting circuit is not good because in the event of a fault you lose everything. You are better off splitting the lighting
left and right and putting in a seperate fuse for each.
I disagree with this entirely - my R1 Striker did a very hard 7500 miles on an extended stock loom without missing a beat! Plus, the components on the
R1 loom are so much better than those that would be fitted to a butchered loom, I would stick with them. When was the last time that you had to
replace a lighting fuse?
Spin 'er off Well...
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nitram38
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| posted on 26/10/08 at 07:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Coose
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
Just a bit of advice, the loom will run everything but is not a good idea.
Having only one fuse per lighting circuit is not good because in the event of a fault you lose everything. You are better off splitting the lighting
left and right and putting in a seperate fuse for each.
I disagree with this entirely - my R1 Striker did a very hard 7500 miles on an extended stock loom without missing a beat! Plus, the components on the
R1 loom are so much better than those that would be fitted to a butchered loom, I would stick with them. When was the last time that you had to
replace a lighting fuse?
Don't ask me, ask Desyboy.
Only 4 fuses controlling the car lights and engine management.
I was following him in the dark when he lost his side/tail lights and brake lights together.
It is ok saving money but cutting corners on safety is not a good idea.
If he had done a left right split circuit, at least half the car lights would have worked.
I have experienced a breaker tripping on the F1-2 in pitch black, but luckily I didn't lose my half my headlights. I was on a country road,
10pm and no street lighting.
It is up to you
[Edited on 26/10/2008 by nitram38]
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